If I don't do my own 40,000 mile service, I'll at least strip it down, load it in the truck with my ramp and bring it home and put it back together myself to eliminate that part of the labor.  I've removed the bodywork before for the minor service of oil change and air filter and that prodedure should save a good bit of the labor cost instead of having the dealer do it.  I intend to call and see how much they'll knock off if I do that.

  Hey, I'm trying to understand the scope Prices I've seen are all over the place!!  Is this a cash grab, a lack of competent mechanics or is the work required subjective?  It's extremely frustrating to see $ numbers from $900 to $2,300  for the same 20k service. This is my first service experience with Triumph of any magnitude  I had an oil and filter done in Florida which cost me $400 which is ridiculous but the service manager wouldn't budget
    I'm a professional estimator by trade and what Im seeing disturbs me greatly!  Triumph has a good name !! What the heck is going on? These are Triumph dealers who are expected to be fair and reasonable. The fact that this huge variance in pricing occurs for the same scope of work is outrageous !
    1. Let's start by making sure the scope of the work is the same (We shouldn't have to do this)
    2. Let's check to see if the labor (man hours ) is the same  If more hours are required the rate should be lower, they could be using an apprentice to do the simple work that we could do ourselves ( removing plastic fairings, changing oil. filters, air pressure might be a few others
    3. Look at the total man hours x rate to compare shop to shop  Parts should be the same OEM online pricing
    4. Detail where the beef is!!  balancing valves? adding shims? removing cam?  This is not clear as to the minimum vs worst case !!
    I don't want a lump sum quote and then have a laundry list of VERY PREDICTABLE EXTRAS !!  please be professional
       I have received two quotes so far, neither in writing and neither indicating an all-inclusive price  Obviously there can be work done outside of the scope of work that is unforeseeable until the engines opened up But saying nothing about those extras is insane !
      If you are close to my age you most likely got taken advantage of by a shop for not asking all the right questions!
      I feel extremely vulnerable right due to the lack of transparency and a labor rate of over $150 an hour !  This is by far the highest rate I've ever paid for any mechanic, I would expect to have a true expert that will fly through the repairs and beat the book man hours consistently  This should give ultimate confidence to a quoting service manager. Then I hear" well we don't get that many Trophys it may take some time to get the plastic off" ?!! What ? at $150 an hour ?
      I'm not feeling good about Triumph management. I will keep you posted, I'm hoping I get an honest service manager who can put down the full scope of the work and what is not included but most likely need to be done. I don't think it's too much to ask  As I said Im a professional estimator and Id never get away with sloppy loose estimates that start high and go higher.  I dont have a warranty and may just dump it as I bought the Triumph to avoid this king of SXXX from BMW
     

Bridgestone Battlax tires did not serve me well. Squared off too quickly and scalloped up front pretty fast too.  Michelin Pilot Road tires (4 GTs are on right now) have performed much better. Perhaps subjective, but I think the Pilot Roads handle better too, especially when dealing with tar snakes. 

I too plan on retiring soon and also look forward to a celebratory ride - albeit on this side of the pond. Enjoy yours and ride safe!

Holy thread resurrection batman etc...

I happened across this thread after cleaning up the front calipers, after having to replace a leaky fork seal...and just wanted to assist with anyone else noticing uneven pad wear.

I found the same when removing the pads (have owned the Trophy for about a year now) as its the first chance I have had to remove them and take a good look.

I noticed that some of the pads were more worn than others (bike has approx 57, 000 miles) and that some pistons were sticking out more than others.

I removed the pads and checked the operation of the pistons, and found some not moving very much.

After cleaning with a toothbrush, brake cleaner and some elbow grease....all pistons now operate as before. I popped the old pads back in (while I wait for some new ones in the post) and took the bike for a shakedown, brakes operated smoothly and felt strong.

If anyone else wants to try this, its something thats probably worth doing annually to keep check of your brake operation and prevent the pistons seizing...

Do one side at a time so when you do operate the brake lever, one side bites the disc and you dont overextend the pistons.

Get a bucket of hot soapy water and a toothbrush, and loosen caliper mounting bolts and pad retaining pins while caliper is on the bike.

Remove and hold / get assistant to hold caliper.

Take a look into the caliper and at the pistons, operate the front brake lever GENTLY and look at which pistons move and which dont.

Push all pistons back in.

Remove top or bottom pair of pads and repeat. If you have a sticky piston, hold others in place while operating brake lever...this should allow the stuck piston to move.

Get the toothbrush in and clean the pistons as best as possible.

Push back in with your thumbs and operate the brake lever again to check movement of piston....all should be nice and smooth.

Rinse and repeat with other pads and pistons and put back together!

Finally - take a look at the pad retaining pins, if they are notched or overly worn, they can cause the pads to bind and not grip the disc evenly.

Forgot to take photos / video, but this Dave Moss video on YouTube should really help and pretty much explains everything I did above!



Ride safe!!!

My advice...avoid Pirelli.  I run Michelin Road 6GT. Superb, expensive tyres.