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Topics - STJIM

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Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical issues / Steering Head Bearings
« on: September 12, 2021, 10:07:42 pm »
Anyone convert from the OEM ball bearings to tapered roller bearings ?

I usually do a conversion on my bikes when the first bearing lube is due.   I'm planning on doing that this late fall or winter.

Just wondering if anyone noticed an improvement, or any other difference, if they have done this.

Took an early morning ride today to take advantage of the cooler temps before it warms up later in the day.

On the way home the cruise control refused to engage.

My first thought was, "Darn - Maybe Consumers Report is right about Triumph's"

Then the bike started acting like it was loosing power and I started smelling brake pad.  Pulled into a gas station that happened to be there just at the right time.   I tried to put the bike on the center stand, but it didn't want to roll easily.

I felt the rear brake rotor and it was hot and then I noticed the rear brake pedal was stuck in the down position.  I pulled it up and then pushed it down and it stuck again.  So I pulled it up and rode home using only the front brake.

After arriving home I removed the R side cover that mounts the foot rest to gain access to the brake lever and found a pebble lodged between the inside of the rear brake lever and the rear sub frame.   I had been riding on a smooth gravel road for about a mile previous to this problem occurring.

So. I'll be checking this spot for any accumulation of debris in the future.

Coincidentally, my Concours had a recall for a similar problem.   Kawasaki re-designed the rear brake pedal clevis that secured the brake lever rod to prevent a similar problem from occurring.

I saved the pebble :

Triumph Trophy - General Chat / Back on the Road with Farkles
« on: June 03, 2021, 04:58:08 pm »
Finally finished up with the 20K mile checks, including adjusting the valve clearances and fabricating a new fuel line hose.

Also installed some LED H4 lamps and LED spots - no inspection to pass here in Michigan.  It was a job properly mounting
the spots, BTW.

Also mounted a big ( truck ) Garmin 7200 which accepts a Garmin GXM30 active ( puck ) XM antenna .

And installed a clutch banjo pressure switch that is wired in parallel with the OEM mechanical switch.  I don't want to be stranded by a failed mechanical switch.  Which brings up the question :  Has anyone tried push-starting a TTSE ?  Maybe that could be done even with a bad clutch switch ?

Notice the tray I fabbed holding the GXM30 XM antenna in the banjo switch pic, above the switch in the pic..

So, there ha s been a discussion about not following the recommendations / requirements in the Scheduled Maintenance Chart with respect to the fuel line replacement every 4 years regardless of mileage.

I'd like to add my 2-cents about the fuel filter replacement interval.  The Chart says to replace it every 20K miles.  That seems way too soon to me.  Some newer cars have replacement intervals of 100K miles.  So modern filter elements must be much improved.  I would feel comfortable going at least 40K miles before changing.

The Honda ST1300 has an inline filter in the tank as part of the fuel pump assembly, same as the TTSE and doesn't even have a replacement interval, but that may have been an oversight in the Service Manual.  And BTW, many cars and some F.I. motorcycles don't have an inline filter, only a "sock' filter at the input of the fuel pump in the tank.

If an Owner doesn't do their own work, the fuel filter replacement could be done at the second 20K service, to save some $$.

But I might as well go ahead and replace the fuel filter at every valve clearance check, since it's easy to do at that time with the tank off, but will replace it with a standard auto metal canister 5/16 inch fuel filter to save some significant USD$$.  A standard filter goes for about $6.  But I will need to buy a short length of submersible fuel line since the OEM filter is a little longer than the 5/16" standard auto fuel filter.  And I may replace the "sock" filter also at that time.  It's a standard "sock" filter available at any good auto parts store.

Events, Meetings, and Ride Outs / July 10, 2021 IBA Pre-Approved Rides
« on: December 21, 2020, 03:34:32 pm »
Rich Henrion from Norway, Michigan and I are planning several IBA ( Iron But Association ) SS1K rides starting on July 10, 2021 in Wakefield, Michigan in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan.

3 rides will be offered, if the Canadian border is open by them, if not then only 2.

The first will be an All Yooperland  SS1K - 1,000 miles done in less than 24 hours, all done in the U.P.  What could be more fun than that ?  This will be the 4th year in a row an All Yooperland ride will be organized.  Last year we had 17 Riders and 3 Pillions complete the ride.  One young lady on a H-D earned her IBA number while 6 months pregnant !!   And 2 teenage daughters earned their IBA number riding pillion with their Dad.

The second ride will be an Alternative SS1K being done in Michigan, Wisconsin, and Minnesota.

The third ride will be a Lake Superior SS1K, if the border is re-opened by then.

And perhaps another Alternative SS1K, if the border is open,  done in the U.P. and Ontario.

These rides are not "big group rides".  We will have a dinner on Friday for those that can work that into their schedule and often Riders will form small groups at that time or Saturday morning before the rides begin.  So Riders do the rides in small groups, solo, or may join a group when meeting at gas stops, or other places along their route, etc.

Riders will be required to collect mandatory receipts to prove their route and for the All Yooperland SS1K, take pics with a digital camera and submit the pics and receipts after the ride.  I will verify you did more than 1K miles in less than 24 hours and submit your "paperwork" to the IBA.  You do the ride, and I'll handle the paperwork.  After sending the required fee to the IBA,  you will receive your IBA number ( if a Newbie ) and IBA Certificate from the IBA.

I'll be posting more info of these rides on the IBA Calendar in a few months. In the mean time, mark you calendar for the weekend of July 10th.  I'll post here again when the rides are on the IBA Calendar.

Rich Henrion has made a deal with the ski lodge just outside Wakefield for rooms - approx. $80 a night for a double bed room.  And if you book 2 nights, I understand the third night is free.

My recommendation is to do at least one IBA ride to determine if you are a carrier the "Defective LD Riding Gene".  IBA Riders know what I'm talking about - ask one , if you know one.  We get all types of Riders on these IBA rides, and all makes and models of bikes.  We always get a great group of Riders.  But only have had 1 TTSE Rider so far.  I'd like to see more.

Please contact me if you have any questions.

Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical issues / Fuel Line
« on: December 19, 2020, 09:08:34 pm »
My USA TTSE Service Manual says to replace the fuel line every 4 years regardless of mileage.

I assume this is because of the possible effect of ethanol gas over time.

I'm wondering if this is really necessary since the fuel line is about USD $106 plus shipping.

Has anyone who hasn't replaced the fuel line after 4 years had a problem with their fuel line causing a problem?

The only fuel line problem I have ever herd of was from an owner of a Burgman 400 who had a fuel line de-laminate that caused the scooter to lose power.  That occurred at about 175K miles.

Modifications and Appearance / Air Box Screen
« on: December 18, 2020, 11:35:04 pm »
Since I have the air box off to do a valve clearance check and throttle body balance, I added a screen to the air box input to help prevent mice from building a nest this winter in the air box.

With my ST1100, every spring I would remove the air cleaner housing and check to see if a mouse nest was in there.  It was only about a 15 minute job on the ST.  Since it's a lot bigger job on the TTSE, I thought I would add the screen.  If a mouse built a nest inside the air box, I think it could pretty well clog the air filter after the bike is started in the spring.

I also keep a tray of moth balls under each bike when in storage.

I got the correct ELM327 interface for the TigerTool program and used it to check the throttle balance.

The tool said "Balanced" before doing any adjustment.  All three were very close but not all exactly matched, so I touched them up a bit.

I was surprised how little change I saw when doing the adjustments on #1 and #3 cylinders .  #2 is the reference and isn't adjustable.  #1 and #3 are adjusted to match #2.

Now I'm wondering how accurate the electronic balance is.  I'm not criticizing the TigerTool.  It only reports what the ECU computes.  I expected to see more of a change in the readings when I made the adjustments.  I base this assumption based on experience balancing throttle bodies and carbs on other bikes using vacuum gauges.

I'm tempted to buy a flowmeter type gauge to measure the actual flow into each cylinder.

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