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Messages - STJIM

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Triumph Trophy - General Chat / Re: Engine Lugging RPM
« on: Yesterday at 03:53:53 pm »
*Originally Posted by Yaga1973 [+]
What is the lowest RPM you'll run your engine at before you consider downshifting?  Let's say you're running on level ground.  Mine is 2500-3000, depending on throttle position and engine noises.

About the same for me in the lower gears - sometimes as low as 2000 RPM - plenty of torque down there.

Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Re: Dead Battery - again!
« on: July 31, 2021, 10:49:58 pm »
So, apparently the output of the tender was less than the current draw of the radio, so the battery would drain even with the tender connected.   The regular battery charger output was much more than the radio draw and could supply the current draw of the radio and had enough extra current to also re-charge the battery.

BTW, an ammeter would have easily measured the relatively high draw of the radio with the ignition "OFF"  and removing the fuse for the radio would have verified that.   That still could be done.

It's nice to make a measurement to determine the actgual cause of a problem.

*Originally Posted by 2slowTrophy [+]
Here in Texas all I can find has 10% ethanol no matter what grade.
When I travel In “The Corn Belt” I find Fuel Without Ethanol!!!😵

SNIP ....

I noticed the same thing a few years ago in Iowa at several stations. It was a surprise !!

Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Re: Dead Battery - again!
« on: July 25, 2021, 04:01:25 pm »
Won't it be obvious if the ignition switch is inadvertently in the "Park" position ?  Won't the front parking light be on ?

Sounds like the battery is "toast" if the battery voltage is only 10.18 volts ( assuming you are measuring directly across the battery terminals with the ignition "On".  If not doing this, then take a measurement directly across the battery terminals to see what the actual battery voltage is when the ignition switch is "On".

Then take a measurement with the "+" meter lead on the "+" battery terminal and the "-" meter lead connected to the chassis.  The voltage should be about the same as directly across the battery.  That will check the battery ground connection.

I still think the battery is drawing an excess amount of current with the ignition "Off" ( that's why the batteries are being ruined ) and it could be any circuit, including the radio.  The only way to logically troubleshoot ( narrow the problem down to a circuit ) is to disconnect either the "-"  battery cable or "+" battery cable and to connect an ammeter in series to measure the "parasitic" current draw with the ignition switch "Off".  Don't turn the ignition key to the "ON" position with the ammeter connected - you will blow the fuse inside the ammeter and maybe even  destroy the ammeter if you do !

Start pulling fuses, one at a time, to figure what circuit is at fault - start with the radio fuse.

These electrical problems aren't that tough to figure out, if approached logically with a meter and schematic - it's not magic.

But like I have said before - you need to know how to use a voltmeter, ammeter, and ohmmeter properly before troubleshooting a problem.   Learning how to use a meter properly while troubleshooting is not a good approach, IMHO.

A decent DVM ( digital volt meter - also measures current & Ohms ) can be had for about $25.  I recommend that everyone should have one and learn how to use it before you have a problem to troubleshoot.  Take some measurement on your car to learn about the meter.  There are some good YouTube videos on using meters.

Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Re: Dead Battery - again!
« on: July 25, 2021, 12:15:51 am »
Sounds like something is draining and killing those new batteries.

Time to do some logical troubleshooting.

With the ignition switch off and with a new or known good battery installed, I would connect an ammeter in series with the negative or positive battery cable.  I bet you will see a lot more than 0.060 amps flowing.

Then start disconnecting fuses until you find the circuit that is drawing the excess current.

Note :  Do this with the ignition switch "OFF" - don't even have the key in the ignition switch.

Once you find the circuit that is the culprit, the real fun will be to find out what component is drawing the excess current.

Interesting !

When filling FD's , I don't pay any attention to the amount specified in the manual.

I make sure the bike is fairly level and then just fill until the gear oil starts to run out the fill hole. And then reinsert the plug.  Sometimes I'll even squirt in a little extra.   Never have had any problem with any oil coming from the breather, if the bike has one.

The old gear oil looks like it's in pretty good condition.  But it's so easy and quick to change, I like to change it about once a year.  Why not  ? Can't hurt and maybe even helps.

They look like the bolts that attach the calipers on my Concours C-14 , for what that's worth.

Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical issues / Re: New TEST Trophy
« on: June 24, 2021, 02:09:36 am »

I think you should be doing some consulting work for Triumph.  I doubt Triumph has a test bed like yours.

And, I think with a Digital & Coconut on this Forum,  members are sitting pretty as far as the technical end of the Trophy is concerned.

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