25 Sep 23, 17:29 pm

Recent Posts

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21
New Members / Re: Zero power - battery & fuses good
« Last post by Coconut on Sep 22, 2023, 02.57 pm »
Very difficult to diagnose remotely and without knowing what you may have checked.

These are all worth checking :

On the right side of the bike, check if the Negative terminal
of the battery has Continuity to the Ground point.

At the Fuseboxes on the left side of the bike, pull a fuse out
and check if there is 12 volts on one side of the fuse terminal.

Access the multi plug under the left loudspeaker which connects the Ignition Switch
and check for 12 volts at the White wire with Blue stripe.

22
And those small parts are.........the shortening plug and ????  The dealer has said they have found some grips but havent said if its a complete kit or not. I have asked for clarification of  what they have bought BUT it would help if I also knew what was needed for a complete fit.
23
That's correct - I haven't had any for around 6 months,
but like I have already said the individual Heated Grips can
be purchased from any authorised Triumph Dealer, and the
small parts needed to make up the complete kit - that Triumph no
longer have, can be purchased from me in the Items For Sale section.

24
Coco. You dont have the heated grips for sale anymore???
25
Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: Valve shims conundrum
« Last post by MidnightSE on Sep 22, 2023, 11.55 am »
*Originally Posted by STJIM [+]
I bought my shims at  https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/pro-x-valve-shim-p?v=11648

They don't have a listing for a Triumph Trophy but the Kawasaki shims are the same diameter( 9.48 mm )  and that's what I used when I did my valve adjust.  Less than 2 bucks each and they come in .025 mm increments.

I have to emphasize they end result of this whole adjustment procedure depends on besides picking the correct new shim thickness AND how accurate the original clearance measurements is done before pulling the cams.  The feeler gauges I used included a .0005 feeler gauge and I use a "GO'  and "NO GO" method to measure the clearances.  I calculated the estimated actual measurement as the average of the "GO" and "NO GO" thicknesses.

I set my exhaust clearances at the high end of the range and the intakes in the middle.  Worked out pretty good and I measured the clearances after I re-installed the cams just to be on the safe side.
SAE system sucks.
It was not .10inch, rather .010 inch which is .254mm.

Jeremy Clarkson was right where he once said. In Europe everything measured in mm, but in America everything measured in feet.

Big thanks for the link where to get shims. I've searched hi and low for smaller increments shims to no avail.
26
New Members / Zero power - battery & fuses good
« Last post by jonnyg_19 on Sep 22, 2023, 09.27 am »
Hi guys - very new here but I've read through as many posts as possible and can't find anything to help with this one...

After being swiped by a car in London last week I've been replacing the front panels & right mirror which were all smashed up on my Trophy (2017) - that's all gone fine but now I have a big problem - there is zero power when you turn the key.

I've taken it apart again and looked for loose connections, the battery is reading 12.9volts all the fuses are good (including the 40v master) and still there is nothing at all (no ignition lights, no horn, no power to the screen etc etc.)

Has anyone come across this before - any help HUGELY appreciated!

Thanks all
27
New Members / Re: New user from Madrid
« Last post by Verdun95 on Sep 22, 2023, 08.51 am »
Welcome aboard  :821:
28
Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: Valve shims conundrum
« Last post by trophied on Sep 22, 2023, 04.21 am »
Exactly.  Takes a bit of time.  Good source for the shims, the .025 increment is very helpful.  Anywhere else they're only in .05 increments and if you buy the Trophy shims they're $9 each and the local to me Kawasaki dealer charges $16 each, and when I asked if they stocked them I was told they never stock valve shims.  Neither did the dealer that did the valves on my '13 the first time they were done.  Precisely why it took 4 days to get my major service done, I was even told they had to wait for shims.  So if dealers don't want to stock a butt load of shims, then your service work will always take longer than you think. 
29
Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: Valve shims conundrum
« Last post by STJIM on Sep 22, 2023, 04.10 am »
*Originally Posted by MidnightSE [+]
My bad, I mixed up SAE and Metric.
It is not .10 mm it is .10 inches which is .254mm. Which is still below min spec of .275mm
So to bring it back up to max clearance of .325 I will need -070mm shim. (.325-.254)
Given existing shim is 2.30mm, I need to subtract .070mm from it. So the shim of 2.25 mm would bring the clearance closer to .325mm clearance.

Does it sound plausible?

NO !!  You had it right the first time.   .10 inch is a ridiculously wide clearance for any engine.  Sorry to be so blunt.

BTW, Cheers...

I bought my shims at  https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/pro-x-valve-shim-p?v=11648

They don't have a listing for a Triumph Trophy but the Kawasaki shims are the same diameter( 9.48 mm )  and that's what I used when I did my valve adjust.  Less than 2 bucks each and they come in .025 mm increments.

I have to emphasize they end result of this whole adjustment procedure depends on besides picking the correct new shim thickness AND how accurate the original clearance measurements is done before pulling the cams.  The feeler gauges I used included a .0005 feeler gauge and I use a "GO'  and "NO GO" method to measure the clearances.  I calculated the estimated actual measurement as the average of the "GO" and "NO GO" thicknesses.

I set my exhaust clearances at the high end of the range and the intakes in the middle.  Worked out pretty good and I measured the clearances after I re-installed the cams just to be on the safe side.
30
I just put a new set of Shinko Verge 2 tires on my bike about 3,000 miles ago.  No cupping of the front tire yet after my IBA Great Lakes 100 ride ( 2,721 miles ) and I really don't care if I get a little less mileage out of these tires since they are significantly less expensive.

The bike seems to "turn-in" much better with these tires, but maybe that's because the front tire isn't cupped like the tire that was replaced and the rear tire doesn't have a flat stop in the center.
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