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Topics - AZBob

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Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Front LED Marker Lamps
« on: March 30, 2018, 07:24:00 PM »
For those of you, like me, who have modified your front turn signals to be always-on front marker lamps, I have some experiments I wanted to share with you.

First, besides being always on, I also use LED lamps (front and rear). I have installed resistors and what-not to make it all work correctly, there are a thread or two on the site about how to do that.

Now, on to the LED's. I first installed a pretty basic amber LED that was about as bright as the stock incandescent lamps:

They worked fine, and aren't actually orange (the light is), so when you look at the bike, you only see silver in the turn signal lens, which is what I wanted. However, I wanted brighter light -- you could see them quite fine, but I wanted something NOTICEABLE, so I've been on a rather lengthy quest to find bright turn signal LEDs.

First up, I tried these:

They are about 50% brighter than the first set, but as you can see, their bodies are black, which makes the look through the lens not what I was looking for.

Next up, I tried:

These look great through the lens, but are about 5-10% dimmer than the black ones. Then I noticed these:

They took about a month to arrive from China and if you notice, they come in both black and silver, and apparently you have no choice. Well, I won the lottery and got the silver ones. They are about 1/2 an inch longer than the other bulbs, but there is plenty of room in the housing for them.

These are BRIGHT. They're about 100% brighter than the original set. During the middle of a bright, sunny day, they are noticeable. I haven't seen them at night yet, but I don't think they're bright enough to be annoying at night.

It remains to be seen if there's enough room in the housing for the heat dissipation/make sure they don't melt the lens.

All of these LED's are the correct socket type for our bike, and use very little current, so a small 6ohm resistor for each bulb works just as well with the brightest ones as with the dimmest originals wrt: the turn signals.

My bike has been exhibiting some behavior over the past week that I'm not liking. When downshifting to 2nd from 3rd, it has started to drop to neutral unexpectedly shortly after the shift. It did it today when setting up to make a 90* turn to the right to get on the highway. Not a super well-timed thing. Before it was a nuisance, now it has become a safety problem due to its timing.

I'm thinking I might have one of the weak shift forks that has bent and won't allow 2nd to fully engage the dogs and stay in gear. Thoughts? Am I just not pressing the gear shift lever hard enough? I have raised the lever so that my giant boots can fit under the shifter, so I wouldn't think that could be a problem. Haven't had this problem on either of the two other bikes.

In the introduction for the HOW TO, I mentioned that I have some solutions to make this project easier for those interested that either don't have the time, patience, or skill required for some of the more delicate parts of this modification. I am prepared to offer three levels of ready-made kits for people to purchase and install themselves. I am not a business, just an enthusiast. As such, if interest is high, I will start doing the kits, but keep in mind that I have two small children (both under 2) at home and I can only do these things in my spare time.

Regardless of which kit one decides they may want though, you'll have to drill several holes, run the wiring harness into the box, as well as run the harness to the luggage carrier on the bike, and if you want to install the interior light, cut a hole for that light. At this time I am only gauging interest -- if you're interested in having me put together one of these packages for you, PM me. I'll update the thread with a post that indicates the direction forward.

These prices are sans shipping, which would be a separate charge.

Complete Package - $325 (+$35 core charge)

I can build the interior light for you, wire everything together with the correct connectors and everything, all that you will have to do is 1) Connect the plugs to the tail light plugs, 2) Connect the power wire to the battery, 3) Install the wiring harness in the luggage carrier much the same way you did the OEM one (you'll send me the one you remove, at which time I'll refund the core charge), and then modify your top case as mentioned previously with regard to drilling holes and cutting the hole for the interior light. Package contents:

  • 6-LED interior dome light for Triumph OEM top box
  • 4-wire sub-harness for the luggage carrier
  • 5-wire taillight plug'n play tap + power cable to battery with integrated fuse + voltage step-down circuit for single-wire taillight, terminated with the appropriate connector
  • Mercury switch with connectors for interior light
  • Topbox harness with connectors for mercury switch and running/brake light (the ground wire will have to be connected to the splice off the existing ground wire)
  • Radiantz running/tail light with appropriate connector
  • All necessary hardware

Running/Brake Light ONLY - $250 (+$35 core charge)

If you don't want to bother with the interior light, but want to install the running/brake light, this will get you everything you need (including the light) and you won't have to cut any of your bike's wiring or build any connectors. You will still need to drill three holes int he top box, solder a wire, and run the harness up into the box, as well as run the harness for the bike side. As with the prior package, after you run the bike-side harness, you send me back the stock female connector and I refund you the $35. Package contents:

  • 4-wire sub-harness for the luggage carrier
  • 5-wire taillight plug'n play tap + voltage step-down circuit for single-wire taillight, terminated with the appropriate connector
  • Topbox harness with connector for running/brake light (the ground wire will have to be connected to the splice off the existing ground wire)
  • Radiantz running/tail light with appropriate connector

Harness Plug'n Play Kit- $165 (+$35 core charge)

If you're fine with some minor wiring, this kit will keep you from having to cut into your bike's wiring for the taillight tap, and will provide the four wire harness for the luggage carrier so you don't need to build the weatherproof connectors, as well as integrating the running/brake light single wire circuit. You will have to do the wiring for the mercury switch (if required), and the running/brake light in the top box yourself. Package contents:

  • 4-wire sub-harness for the luggage carrier
  • 5-wire taillight plug'n play tap + power cable to battery with integrated fuse (optional) + voltage step-down circuit for single-wire taillight, terminated with the appropriate connector


What we're doing: Installing a running light/brake light on the back of the top box and an interior light inside the top box that turns on when the box is opened, regardless of whether the ignition is on or not (it wouldnít be very useful if it only worked while the ignition were on).

Cost: To do everything, approximately $275 + ~6 hours work time/3-5 days drying time

Skill Level: This is an advanced project, requiring delicate crimping of weatherproof connector pins, soldering, and wiring and also requires a couple of specialized tools (mostly due to the wire connectors). I have some solutions that can knock it down to a mostly plug'n play beginner level, if you're interested. I started a thread where you can find out more information.

There are three major sections to this how-to: Part I - Building the interior light; Part II - Top box light wiring/interior light install; Part III - Bike wiring. You can (and I suspect many will) do only the running/brake light on its own -- skip Part I entirely, read Part IIís intro, and then skip down to, step 3. The instructions then tell you where to skip if youíre only doing the running/brake light.

When mentioning direction in these instructions (e.g. left, right, front, back), the left side is the clutch side, the right side is the throttle side, the front is toward the headlights, and the back is toward the tail lights. When referring to direction with regard to any removable part (e.g. the top box or luggage carrier), the orientation I am referring to is as if it were mounted on the bike (e.g. the back of the top box is the side you insert your key to lock and unlock it, whether the case is mounted or not).

Resources Required

Interior Light

Running/Brake Light


Total: ~$275 + ~6 hours work time/3-5 days drying time

Tools Required

  • Small-bladed common screwdriver
  • T-15 torx driver
  • Wire crimper capable of crimping pins for weather-proof connectors such as Hozan P-706
  • X-Acto knife
  • Utility knife
  • Reamer
  • Soldering gun/iron
  • Solder
  • A saw capable of cutting aluminum
  • A hobby saw to cut the interior light lens to length
  • Drill and various drill bits
  • Dremel or other cutting tool
  • 400 grit sandpaper
  • Hobby brush/applicator

Please note the photos are hosted on Google drive, which is a domain. Some employers block all images that originate from any URL (so employees canít look at pictures from Google Image Search), so you may not be able to see them while at work.

Due to message size limitations, this how-to is in multiple posts.

So a bunch of people over in the improvements thread mentioned wanting a brake light in the top box, so I thought I'd post a preview of the result of the how-to I'll post over this weekend, most likely (lights are hard to photograph, especially with phone cameras, so, don't judge, lol; also visible in the pictures are the Skene Design P3 lights on either side of the license plate):

Running light:

Brake applied:

As a bonus, an interior light that comes on when you open the top box, and shuts off when you close it:

Accessories and Products / Difference Between OEM Alarms
« on: February 18, 2016, 05:07:02 PM »
I'm probably going to fit the OEM alarm, and in looking it up, I notice there are two versions:

Alarm Kit S4 $399
Alarm Kit S4, SRA Approved $340

The SRA Approved one indicated "FR only" which I assume is France? Does anyone know the difference between the two?

So I'm well into my third brake light and interior light in the top box project. The only real thing holding me back right now is the top box itself. Does anybody know how to separate the inner and outer halves of the bottom half of the top box? (the top part is cake, obviously)

I have removed every screw I can see and it still won't come apart. I can drive a plastic wedge between the halves and nothing is holding the sides from the top as far as I can see, it seems to be being held from the bottom, perhaps by glue, perhaps mechanically by something I haven't disassembled yet. I took the cover off the plug-in harness mechanism and there's nothing under there I can see that would be holding it together. I haven't taken that assembly out, however, as there is a metal bar that connects the handle to the slider that moves the connector toward and away from the connector on the sliding carriage when it's on the bike. I am a little afraid of breaking the handle/lock mechanism prying things apart.

*Originally Posted by DonTom [+]
I wish I could use the TTSE TPMS before  I start the engine, as I do in my other TPMS vehicles.

I wish I could start the bike with the sidestand down.

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