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Topics - Coconut

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Triumph Trophy - General Chat / List of Abbreviations
« on: December 13, 2019, 08:11:56 AM »
I compiled a List of the various Abbreviations appearing within the documentation
for our Triumph Trophy, which some Members might find useful.

Let me know if I've missed any and I will add them.   :028:

A-Amps( Amperes )
AF-Alternative Frequency ( Audio System )
Ah-Amp hour
API-American Petroleum Institute
ATDC-After Top Dead Centre
AVC-Automatic Volume Control ( Audio System )
ABS-Anti-Lock Brake System
BTDC-Before Top Dead Centre
CAN-Controller Area Network
CAT-Category ( XM Satellite Radio )
DC-Direct Current
DMM-Digital Multi Meter
DOT (e.g. "DOT 4" )-Department Of Transportation ( US )
DPS-Digital Signal Processor ( Audio System )
DSM-Diagnostic Status Manager
DTC-Diagnostic Trouble Code ( Fault Code )
ECM-Engine Control Module
ECU-Electronic Control Unit
EEPROM-Electronically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory
EMS-Engine Management System
EON-Enhanced Other Network ( Audio System )
EPC-Electronic Parts Catalogue
EQ-3 Band Equalisation ( Audio System )
FM-Frequency Modulation
GPS-Global Positioning System
HOAT-Hybrid Organic Acid Technology ( Coolant )
HT-High Tension
KM ( or Km )-Kilometre(s)
Km/h-Kilometres per hour
LED-Light Emitting Diode
LW-Long Wave ( Audio System )
MAP Sensor-Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
MIL-Malfunction Indicator Light ( Engine Management Light )
MM ( or mm )-Millimetre(s)
MPH-Miles Per Hour
MTBE-Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether
MW-Medium Wave ( Audio System )
NAV-Navigation System
NGLI-National Lubricating Grease Institute
ODO-Odometer ( Miles / KM's )
PSI / psi-Pounds per Square Inch
PTY-Programme Type ( Audio System )
RES-Resume ( Cruise Control )
RON-Research Octane Number ( Fuel )
RPM-Revolutions Per Minute
TDC-Top Dead Centre
TDLS-Triumph Dynamic Luggage System
RDS-Radio Data System ( Audio System )
RG-Regional Frequency ( Audio System )
RSU-Rear Suspension Unit
SAI-Secondary Air Injection
TA-Traffic Announcement ( Audio System )
TES-Triumph Electronic Suspension
TPMS-Tyre Pressure Monitoring System
TTC-Triumph Traction Control
USB-Universal Serial Bus ( Audio System )
VIN-Vehicle Identification Number
vBatt-Battery Voltage
WX-Weather Radio ( Audio System )

Time Out - General Chat / Coconut's Christmas Message 2019
« on: December 08, 2019, 09:29:14 AM »
Personally I don't "do" Christmas - Those who know me know why,
and it has nothing to do with "Road Safety".

However in the "Spirit" ( pun intended ) of Road Safety,
I'd like everyone to watch this Video, aimed primarily at Car Drivers,
and think about some of the Statistics :

Here are a couple of recently published statistics, and my comments to provoke further thought.

1.  You're twice as likely to Crash while Texting, than you are when Drink-Driving.   :084:

This Christmas, Switch your Mobile Phone OFF and drive home drunk -
You'll be twice as safe !

2.  Almost 1 in 6 of all deaths on our roads involve drivers who are over the legal alcohol limit.

5 in 6 deaths on our roads involve drivers who are UNDER the legal alcohol limit.
So why did they die ? Texting or using their Phone while driving ?

Have a Safe and Merry Christmas  :821:   :030:

Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Motorcycle Wiring - A Basic Guide !
« on: December 01, 2019, 12:12:33 PM »

A lot of questions crop up on the Forum about Bike electrics,
where the person enquiring has very little electrical knowledge,
so I’ve put together this BASIC guide - which will hopefully help to
explain how some things work, and why they sometimes don’t !   :027:

The Trophy has a fairly typical 12 Volt DIRECT CURRENT ( or D.C. ) system
with NEGATIVE EARTH ( or Negative Ground ).
The Main 12 Volt Battery is located under the cover below the
right handlebar grip and has a POSITIVE and a NEGATIVE Terminal. 

POSITIVE is sometimes referred to as +ve, or +, or Supply, and
NEGATIVE is sometimes referred to as -ve, or -, or Earth, or Ground.

A CIRCUIT generally begins and ends at the Power Source ( usually the Main Battery ),
and comprises all of the wires and individual parts ( Components ) to complete the Circuit.

A COMPONENT is an individual part of a Circuit, such as a Battery, Wire, Switch, Bulb, etc.

In a Direct Current ( D.C. ) system, CURRENT can be considered to "flow" from the Positive Side
of the Battery through the Circuit and then to the Negative side, ( usually ) along a wire or wires.

CURRENT is expressed ( measured ) in Amperes, or Amps ( A ). 

The rate at which the electrical POWER is "used", is expressed in WATTS ( W ) ,
e.g. a Headlamp bulb might "use" 55W, whereas a lower powered Tail Light bulb may be 5W.

Components with higher Wattages draw more Current.

There is a mathematical formula for calculating Power ( W)  or Current ( A ).

On a motorcycle, the Voltage ( V ) remains fairly constant and is assumed to be 12V,
though in practice it is often slightly higher than this at around 13V or more.
Current ( A ) =  Power ( W ) / Voltage ( V ).

A 55W headlamp bulb would therefore draw 4.58A ( 55W / 12V),
and a 5W Tail Light bulb would draw 0.42A ( 5W / 12V).

FUSES are designed to Blow ( fail )  if their rated Current is exceeded.
This provides protection against overheating or damage to wiring and components
if the Current draw is excessive, such as in a “Short Circuit”.

Watts = Amps x Volts, so a 10A Fuse could theoretically provide 120W ( 10A x 12V ).

As Current is drawn from the Battery, the Voltage and therefore the available power,
will gradually reduce as the Battery Discharges.  To prevent this happening the Battery
needs to be Recharged and this is accomplished by an engine powered Generator,
( known as an Alternator ), which provides Power, and keeps the Battery charged
while the engine is running, or by use of an external Battery Charger,
or Battery Tender if required, e.g. when the bike is not in use for extended periods. 

Alarms, Digital clocks and similar Components use small amounts of power even
when the Ignition is switched OFF, hence the reason for using a Battery Tender.

If the Power used by those Components is not replaced, the Battery
will gradually Discharge and little or no Power will be available.
If the Battery Voltage is allowed to completely drain, it can result in damage
to the Battery, which may then need to be replaced.

Generally, Multi stranded Copper wires are used, coated in an Insulating material.

Larger size wires ( can ) carry higher Currents, so the Main Battery Wires are much bigger
( in cross sectional diameter ) than the wires used for, e.g. a Single Indicator bulb.

To simplify matters, and reduce the amount of wires needed, the Negative Earth,
or Negative Ground system is used, where The Negative terminal of the Battery
is connected by a heavy duty wire directly to the bike Frame.

Electrical Components can than then have a single Power / Supply wire from the Battery,
and either a short(er) wire - connected directly to the Frame, or the metal body
of some components may be attached directly to the frame to complete the Circuit.
The Power / Supply wire is usually provided via a Fusebox, containing Fuses
of appropriate ratings, to protect the various Circuits.

Individual Wires are colour coded, to help identify them and match up with Wiring Diagrams.

Due to the limitations of the number of colours available, wires may have
an additional coloured stripe along their length, e.g. a Red wire with a White Stripe.

Wiring diagrams use pictorial representations for the various Components,
and are often printed in Colour, but are also tagged with abbreviations of their colours,
where the main colour is shown first, followed by the colour of any stripe.

e.g. R is a Red wire, and RW is a Red wire with a White Stripe.

There is usually a Key to these colour abbreviations, which, on the Trophy are :

    • B = Black
    • U = Blue
    • N = Brown
    • G = Green
    • S = Slate / Grey
    • O = Orange
    • K = Pink
    • R = Red
    • P = Purple
    • W = White
    • Y = Yellow
    • LG = Light Green
    • LU = Light Blue

    Individual components are usually drawn on Circuit diagrams to help explain
    their meaning and operation, a good example being a basic switch :

    Switch in OFF Position:

    Here are some of the other Pictorial representations used on the Trophy Wiring Diagram :

    BATTERY – The motorcycle main 12 Volt Battery -
    showing Wiring Colours ( N = Brown, B = Black ) :

    BULB – A variety of traditional Tungsten Single filament bulbs are used
    for the Front Position Light, Front and Rear Indicators, etc :

    The Headlight bulbs are “Twin Filament”
    for the Main and Low / or “Dipped” Beams :

    ECU / ECM – Electronic Control Unit, or Electronic Control Module. 
    These contain complicated electronic circuit boards for various purposes including control
    of the Ignition Timing, Immobiliser and Tyre Pressure Monitoring etc. 
    To avoid the risk of causing damage it is usually recommended to disconnect the main Battery
    when carrying out any work on, or inspection of their electrical circuits.
    The internal circuitry of such ECU's are not usually shown on a Wiring Diagram.

    GROUND / EARTH CONNECTION - Connection to the motorcycle Frame,
    or other component, that in turn is connected to the Negative Battery Terminal :

    MOTOR – A device that provides a turning motion when power is applied. 
    The rotating shaft of the motor usually has some sort of mechanical link
    or cogs / gears etc. as in the Windscreen motor, Headlamp level motor and TES motors :

    PHYSICAL WIRE CONNECTOR - These may not be obvious as they can be taped up
    and buried inside a section of wiring harness. 
    Here, 4 wires are shown joined together :

    NOTE : Wires shown crossing on a Wiring diagram, WITHOUT a Connector as shown above,
    are NOT connected together at the point(s) where they shown crossing :

    PLUG / SOCKET CONNECTOR - Showing the number of Pins, and the Pin numbers :

    RELAY – A Heavy Duty Switch used to switch Components drawing higher levels of Power,
    for example Accessory Sockets into which Heated Gear might be connected, and / or for 
    specific wiring solutions such as the Changeover Relays used for the electric screen.
    The Starter Solenoid is simply a bigger version of a Relay.
    Here the Relay Coil - at the bottom of the Image, when energised -
    usually by Power being provided when a Switch is turned to ON,
    causes the Relay Contacts - at the top of the Image, to close,
    completing / turning ON the circuit :

    SWITCH :
    A single switch housing may incorporate multiple switches. 
    The wiring diagram will usually show the individual switch contacts.
    Here, Switch 1 is a simple One Way ON / OFF Switch, and Switch 2
    is a 2 Way ( 2 outputs ) Switch, both inside one Switch Housing :


    Basic testing of electrical circuits is within the capability of most home mechanics,
    and can be broadly split into three categories :
    • Integrity : Checking that the physical contacts at each end of the wire
      are sound, e.g at the Switch contacts, and any Multi-Plug connectors
      into which the Component may be connected
    • Continuity : Checking that there are no breaks in the length of a wire
      e.g. from the Switch to the Component
    • Short Circuit – checking that a circuit providing power to a Component
      is not being unintentionally diverted to Ground, e.g. a “live” wire chafed through
      and coming into contact with the Frame causing the fuse for that circuit to blow.

    There are numerous methods of checking electrical circuits, including a simple Bulbholder,
    or Induction type testers that can find broken wires. 

    My personal preference is for a "Multi Meter", having the capability to measure
    in the region of 12 Volts D.C. and Resistance ( measured in Ohms ) for checking Continuity.

    Multimeters need not be expensive, there are many types available at low cost,
    with numerous Videos and tutorials on YouTube etc on how to use them :

    Care must be taken when using the Continuity Tester NOT to connect the Meter to Live wires,
    which could cause damage to the Meter.

    When testing wires to or from an ECU, disconnect the Main Battery AND any wiring at the ECU.

    NOTE : It is NOT recommended to use a Multimeter for checking MAINS Power circuits,
    such as those found in your home running at 230V ( or 110V outside the UK etc ),
    UNLESS you are properly qualified to do so, as serious Injury or Death is a real possibility !

    Here is a simple example of a Switched, Fused, Lighting circuit :

    Let us imagine that the Bulb does not illuminate when the switch is operated,
    and we want to find out why.

    The possible causes are :

    • The Bulb has failed
    • Main Battery is discharged
    • The Fuse has Blown
    • The Switch is faulty
    • There is a break in continuity from the Battery +ve to the Bulb
    • There is a break in continuity from the Bulb to Battery -ve ( via Ground )
    • There are poor / broken connections at the Battery, Fuse holder,
      Switch, Bulb holder, or Bulb Contacts.
    • There is a Short Circuit somewhere between the Input connection for the Bulb, and Ground.

    While this may appear complicated, and the below steps seem lengthy, it is quite easy to Test.

    Experience will indicate that the most likely cause, and often the easiest to check,
    is a failed Bulb, so check that first - simply try replacing with a known Good Bulb, 
    or test with the Multi Meter by removing the Bulb and checking for continuity
    between the bulb contacts, one of which may be the Bulb Body.

    If the Bulb is good – check its contacts, and that the contacts inside the Bulb holder
    are clean with no signs of corrosion.

    Similarly test the Fuse – If it has blown replace with one of the same rating,
    and check the contacts inside the fuse holder are clean and not corroded.
    If the Fuse blows again as soon as the switch is turned ON,
    this indicates a likely Short Circuit. ( See below ).

    Once the Bulb and Fuse are known to be good, Check the Main Battery.
    Do other circuits work ?
    Use the Multi Meter set to measure DC in the region of 12 Volts, and check that
    the Main Battery is charged – with the Red Meter Lead against the Battery + Terminal,
    and the Black Meter Lead against the Battery – Terminal.

    Progress along the Circuit testing for Power at the Fuse holder input AND output terminals,
    then the same at the Switch ( ensuring the Switch is ON ), and then on to the Bulb holder.

    If at any point there is NO Power, this indicates a break in the preceding wire, or poor connection(s).
    If Power is present at the Bulb holder, check Continuity from the Output side of the Bulb holder to Ground,
    to identify any poor connection or broken wire.

    To check for a short circuit, e.g. if the Fuse continually blows, disconnect the Battery +ve terminal,
    and remove the Bulb from the Bulb holder, then use the Multi Meter to check at each point of the circuit.
    There should be NO Continuity to Ground from :
    • The wire removed from the Battery + Terminal
    • The Fuse holder input and output Terminals
    • The Switch Input and Output Terminals
    • The Bulb holder Input Terminal

    If Continuity IS found, try to isolate it, for example remove the Fuse and check if the Short Circuit
    is on the Input side – indicating the problem lies with the wire from the Battery,
    or the Output side indicating the fault lies after the Fuse holder, and so on. 

    When the section with the Short Circuit is identified, examine that section of wire
    to find where it is shorting out to Ground – look for signs of chafing against other wires
    or parts of the frame / components of the bike, and repair when found.

    These Testing principles can be used, together with the Trophy Wiring Diagram
    ( found in the Service Manual ), to identify most electrical faults.

    Please feel free to add any helpful comments, but try and keep to the "Basic" theme !

    Cheers  :821:

    Triumph Trophy - General Chat / Garage Wall Clock !
    « on: October 16, 2019, 06:19:18 PM »
    PURELY to give Members an idea of something that can be done with a cheap Wall Clock ( £5.00 ),
    a bit of spray paint, colour printer etc ... I'm NOT able to make any for anyone else ! .....

    Now hanging on my garage wall to help me keep track of how much time I spend in there !

    Did you know ? .....

    ..... Only 5,380 Triumph Trophy ( 2012 onwards ) Motorcycles were produced and sold worldwide.
    That's 513 Standard Models, and 4867 SE Models. ( Source : Triumph Motorcycles Ltd 03/10/17 ).

    ..... New Trophy motorcycles were provided with a spare Lock Barrel
    operated by the same key, for use if a Top Box was purchased. 
    This was usually placed into the Tool Roll under the Pillion seat.
    ( ... and sometimes in the Glove Box ).

    ..... The Pillion Seat has four small strap loops on the underside
    that can be used with Bungee cords or ties to help secure bags etc.

    ..... The Pillion Seat also has a recess on the underside to store
    the Owners Handbook, Audio Handbook and Service Record Booklet.

    ..... Underneath the Seats, the undertray is shaped to accept storage
    of the Triumph security accessory "D" Lock.

    ..... The Front Brake and Clutch Master Cylinders mounted on the Handlebars, have threaded holes
    ( M10 x 1.25 Right Hand thread ) for Mirrors - the holes are covered with rubber blanking plugs.

    ...... You can check the Headlamp bulbs are working without starting the engine.
    Simply hold the Clutch Lever IN and turn the Ignition to ON.

    ..... You can display any stored Fault Codes on the Instrument Panel.
    Hold the Scroll Up and "i" Buttons in when switching on the Ignition,
    and keep them held in until the Instruments have completed their Sweep.
    A Diagnostics screen will be displayed listing any stored Fault Codes
    ( "P0000" = No Codes stored ). Scroll up or down if more than One Code is stored,
    and switch off the Ignition when done.

    ..... You can display the Audio Software Version on the Instrument Panel.
    ( Latest versions are 1.04E for US & Canada, and 1.04A for everywhere else ).
    The radio must be OFF before turning ON the Ignition, so turn the Ignition ON,
    then turn the Radio OFF ( it it is ON ) by pressing and holding
    the "Volume-" Button until "RADIO OFF" is displayed.
    Switch OFF the Ignition, wait for everything to shut down,
    then Switch the Ignition ON again, and wait for the Instruments to finish their Sweep.
    Press the "P" Button and hold it in until a DIAGNOSTICS Screen appears.
    Scroll down to S/W Version and press the "i" Button.

    ..... When you turn the Ignition Switch past the OFF position to the "Parking Lights" Position,
    as well as the Front and Rear Parking Lights being switched ON,
    the Brake Light will illuminate if either Front or Rear Brake is operated,
    and the Horn will still work when the Horn Button is pressed !

    Feel free to add any more "DID YOU KNOW ....." comments !

    Triumph Trophy - General Chat / Sorry - I didn't see the motorbike !
    « on: September 28, 2019, 12:47:12 PM »
    Most Motorcyclists will be all too familiar with Drivers of Cars, Lorries etc
    that pull out into their path, and then say, "Sorry - I didn't see you."

    This is because, generally speaking,  they are not conditioned to LOOK for Motorcyclists,
    and are only looking for a vehicle of Car size or bigger.

    There have been all sorts of campaigns to try and increase awareness of this problem,
    including Television Adverts such as "Think Once, Think Twice, Think Bike" etc,
    and through my local Institute of Advanced Motorcyclists Group,
    I became aware of this new and brilliantly simple campaign which I think is is worthy of sharing,
    as it could help our children become much safer and more aware motorists in the future :

    Cheers  :821:

    Does anyone still have a copy of the orginal "motorad"
    Triumph Trophy Review that was published in late 2012
    when the Model was first launched ?

    ( I'm fairly sure it was by "motorad" but I cannot find a copy of the review on line ).

    Within the review it was mentioned about the failure of the Ignition switch wiring,
    and I would really like to be armed with a copy of that in a report to Triumph
    and the UK DVSA about this ongoing problem.


    NOTE : This Topic is "Locked" so comments may not be added,
    however PLEASE READ - as your HELP is needed !

    Edited 29/12/19 to update ( add to ) List.

    Edited 29/09/19 to update List.

    Edited 09/10/19 to update List and re-order, with most recent failure at the top of the list.

    Members may already know about the problem of Ignition Switch Wiring failures,
    discussed extensively in these Topics :

    Ignition Switch Wiring Failures,

    Complete electrical shutdown,

    Ignition switch wiring

    No Horn, Front & Rear Position Lights or Brake Light,

    Ignition switch diy repair,

    .... and probably several others.

    I have noted that Members increasingly reporting such Faults are receiving a response from Triumph
    that it is NOT a "known issue" and are not receiving any help with rectifying the fault.
    ( Most Owners are now out of their initial 2 year Warranty period ).

    More importantly than the financial cost and inconvenience of repairs, it is my personal opinion
    that this is a SERIOUS Safety issue where a rider could experience a total loss of power while riding,
    with no warning, that could easily have disastrous / fatal consequences.

    It is for that reason that I have published the below list for reference,
    collated from many of the Posts within this Forum, clearly demonstrating
    that this is NOT an isolated problem.

    I am not normally the rebellious type, but as can be seen from the List,
    this problem can affect ANY Trophy from 2012 onwards, and I intend to write
    to both Triumph and the UK Driver and Vehicle Standards Agency ( DVSA )
    urging Triumph to reconsider this matter, and devise a solution that can be applied
    as a Safety Recall, BEFORE the above potential consequences are realised.

    In order to do this I need YOUR help.

    Please check the below List to make sure you are on it, if your Trophy has had this problem.
    If not please let me know .......

    I then need you to send me some additional details, by Private Message,
    which I will not disclose on the Forum,other than updating the below list with the anonymised details.

    Please send me the following details :

    • Name
    • Address
    • Trophy Registration / VIN Number
    • Year of manufacture
    • Approximate Mileage when fault occurred
    • Approximate date of failure
    • was this reported to Triumph ?
    • Was this reported to DVSA ( or the equivalent Department of Motoring outsdie the UK ) ?

    I will assume that by providing the above information you consent to it being included
    in my correspondence to Triumph Motorcycles Ltd. and DVSA.

    No.MemberTrophy YearMileageFailure Date
    38Non Member "M.L."201364,921 Km10/06/19
    36Non Forum Member "T.P."201344,212 Km02/03/19
    27stuartsctt51201345,000 Km27/10/17
    21billyboy56201328,000 Km28/01/17
    19Dutchie201530,000 Km14/11/16
    18karl andrews201317,20817/09/16
    16Tiny Tim2013-08/09/16
    14Brit Al20149,300??/10/16
    13Non Forum Member "J-P.D."201332,00 Km??/08/16
    11atuti201232,000 Km02/05/16
    6digital20127,000 Km19/08/15

    Thank You.

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