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Topics - Coconut

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I have absolutely NO connection with the Seller,
but I spotted a Standard Trophy being broken for Spares on eBay ( UK ),
which I thought might be useful to some of our Members.

Please check the desriptions and Photographs carefully for damage / marks etc.
and direct any questions about the specific parts to the Seller ( not me ) !

Various parts are For Sale, including :

  • Front Mudguard
  • Front Mudguard Painted Panel ( Lunar Silver)
  • Front Wheel
  • Front Brake Calipers ( Pair )
  • Front Discs ( Pair )
  • Front Forks ( Pair ) inc. Upper and Lower Yokes
  • Headlamp
  • Left Indicator
  • Screen Sub Frame
  • Screen Adjustment Mechanism
  • Screen Supports, Arms and Covers
  • Standard Screen
  • Instrument Pack
  • CNC machined Sat Nav Bracket + Non Standard device holder
  • Left Handlebar Screen & Heated Grips Switch Cube
  • Left Handlebar Switch Cube
  • Right Handlebar Engine Run / Stop Switch
  • Handlebars ( Pair )
  • Heated Grips
  • Clutch Master Cylinder & Lever
  • Front Brake Master Cylinder & Lever
  • Mirrors ( Pair )
  • Fuel Tank Cover Panel
  • Gear Change Pedal inc. Linkages
  • Rear Brake Master Cylinder
  • Side Stand inc. Switch
  • Centre Stand
  • Standard Rider Seat
  • Right Rider Footrest Hanger Plate & Footrest
  • Left Rider Footrest Hanger Plate & Footrest
  • Left Pillion Footrest Hanger Plate & Footrest
  • Rear Brake Disc
  • Rear Brake Caliper
  • Pannier Mounting Rails and Link Bar
  • Rear Grab Rail
  • Sliding Carriage Rack
  • Rear Mudguard Tip inc. extender & Reflectors
  • Rear Light Unit
  • Rear Suspension Unit ( Manual )
  • Rear Suspension Unit Drag Link
  • Swing Arm
  • Driveshaft
  • Final Drive / Bevel Box
  • Rear Subframe
  • Radiator
  • Air Box
  • ABS Pump
  • Fuel Pump
  • Throttle Bodies
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main ECU, Immobiliser ECU & Ignition Lock inc. 1 Key
  • Engine ( 30,705 miles )

Link to eBay Listings - Check to see if Items are still available :
eBay Triumph Trophy Items For Sale by james_sherlock

Cheers  :821:

Accessories and Products / Triumph Accessory Installation Instructions
« on: October 13, 2020, 12:29:44 pm »
Here's a List of Installation Instructions for various Triumph accessories,
with Links to Download them from Triumph's Web Site,
and where known - a few corrections to errors within them !

( Feel free to "PM" me if you know of any more errors
or even missing Instructions, and I will add them ).

Accessory ( Click for Instructions )Part Number/Notes
Alarm System ( Datatool S4)A9808012Plug In version. See also Version A9808015
Alarm System ( Datatool S4)A9808015Hard Wired Version. See also Version A9808012
Auxiliary Power SocketA9828005
Front Mudguard ExtensionA9708258
GPS Accessory ConnectorA9938122
Heated Grips Kit (with Shorting Link)A9638088Includes Version A9638094 ( No Shorting Link )
Heated Seats KitA9708259Includes Versions A9708276 & A9708260
Paint Protection FilmA9930245
Sat Nav BracketA9828009Includes U.S. Version A9828011
Sliding Carriage for Top BoxA9508161Includes A9508156 Top Box Lid assembly
Tank BagA9510095
Top Box Backrest PadA9500506
TPMS SensorsA9640057Includes A9640056, A9640168 A9640169 and others.

Errors & Omissions :

A9808012 Alarm System ( Datatool S4 Plug In Version )
No errors reported.

A9808015 Alarm System ( Datatool S4 Hard Wire Version )
No errors reported.

A9828005 Auxiliary Power Socket
No errors reported.

A9708258 Front Mudguard Extension
No errors reported.
Note that the Adhesive Pad is NOT used on the Trophy.

A9938122 GPS Accessory Connector
No errors reported.

A9638088 Heated Grips Kit
No errors reported.

A9708259 Heated Seats Kit
No errors reported.

A9930245 Paint Protection Film
No errors reported.

A9828009 Sat Nav Bracket
No errors reported.

A9828011 Sat Nav Bracket ( U.S. Version )
No errors reported.

A9508161 Sliding Carriage for Top Box
Page 10 gives incorrect information for the SE Model Fusebox.
The Top Box Power Socket IS protected by Fuse No.6 ( 15A )
of the Rear Fusebox, but this Fuse does NOT protect the Heated Grips.
The Fuse additionally protects the Side Lights, Brake Lights and Horn.

A9510095 Tank Bag
No errors reported.

A9500506 Top Box Backrest Pad
No errors reported.

Anyone wishing to carry out their own Servicing and Maintenance of their Trophy
will realise that some tasks such as Bleeding the ABS Hydraulic system,
adjusting Throttle Body balance etc can only be achieved using Diagnostic equipment
and associated software connected to the Trophy OBD Diagnostics Port.

Other than official Dealer equipment, there are three main options :

DealerTool Costing GBP 59.99 + Postage,
which is an OBD Interface cable and Windows Software package.

TigerTool Service Utility Software is FREE Software that will work with the DealerTool Interface cable, and other cables.

Tune ECU - I know very little about this product / Software other than that it may have the ability
to upload ECU "Tunes" that cannot be accomplished with DealerTool or TigerTool.
I have not investigated this product further which is not included in this Topic for comparison,
though I have duplicated this warning from the supplier :
"If this software is not correctly applied, the engine can be destroyed." !

DealerTool can be used to accomplish quite a long list of checks, tests and diagnostics,
including the reading and resetting of Fault Codes ( "DTC's" ), balancing of throttle bodies,
running the ABS brake bleed routine, checking sensor voltages, and switch operations,
activating or deactivating the instrument panel heated grip and heated seat Icons,
activating or deactivating the TPMS system, resetting the screen limit points and
many more features, but cannot ( currently ) be used to program in New TPMS sensors.

It should be noted that some Members have had problems trying to configure Windows 10
to use the correct Drivers for the supplied OBD Interface cable.  The vendors of DealerTool
have been seen to be very helpful in sorting such issues out, and the software IS advertised
as being suitable for use with Windows 10.  ( Though I use mine on a Windows 8.1 laptop ). 

TigerTool Service Utility Software, coupled with a suitable OBD Interface,
can perform a limited number of the above Functions and Tests,
but it CAN also be used to program in New TPMS Sensors.  :169:

The attached document lists the available Functions for DealerTool and TigerTool
so that a comparison can be made, and help decide what, if anything to purchase.
( NOTE : Edited to Version 2 including a few amendments ).

For me, the DealerTool only has to be used once for something that would otherwise incur
a charge for a Triumph Dealer to perform, and together with the free TigerTool software
provides a very comprehensive package, and I think it makes sense that if you have to purchase
an OBD Interface cable, to go with the DealerTool package, as the additional functionality
more than compensates for the additional cost.

Cheers  :821:

First of all - try other methods described within the Forum,
which mainly involve the use of a "Pick" type tool inserted into the Keyhole of the Lock
to try and engage with an elusive "Locking Wafer" buried at the deepest part of the Barrel !

It is this Locking Wafer that holds the Barrel inside the Cylinder.

It IS possible to remove the Barrel using the "Pick" method - I've done it myself,
but sometimes the Locking wafer just doesn't want to play !  :157:

A professional Locksmith may have more luck with one of their Picks,
than trying to make one yourself !

If the Barrel just won't come out, another method ( and the one used by Triumph Dealers )
is to DRILL the Lock Barrel out.  This is quite a brutal solution, and will often result in damage
being caused to the Cylinder in which the Barrel is located.
This will then require replacement of the complete Top Box Carcass !

If all else has failed, and you want to get the Lock Barrel out, the following method WILL work,
but will take an hour or two, and needs some attention to detail. :084:

As with any advice I offer in this Forum - Use it at your own risk !

The first hurdle to overcome is to separate the two halves of the Top Box Base.

Fortunately this task has already been described, complete with Video, in another Topic here :

Top Box separating inner case from outer ......

Basic instructions :

Remove coloured Lid ( 5 x "T20 Torx" screws, noting the lower central screw
has both a washer  and a rubber washer fitted ). Put the lid somewhere safe.

Remove the 4 nuts ( 8mm socket or spanner ) from the hinges, along with
the two strengthening plates, and remove the lid.  Put the Lid somewhere safe.

Remove the 7 x T20 Torx screws around the upper edge of the Top Box Base,
and the further 7 x T20 Torx screws from the bottom of the Base.
( All the screws are the same length so don't worry about mixing them up ! ).

There is no need to remove the plate from the underside of the Base which covers
the electrical connection and it's Locking Lever, or any of the screws from the underside.

Next is, in my view, the difficult part of heating the Base up to soften the glue
holding the two halves together.  Take your time and be careful - if you are too forceful you
can end up bending or breaking some of the plastic tabs around the inner edges that help hold
the two haves together when assembled, but I still found that a LOT of force was needed
to pull the two halves apart, after quiet a lot of heating with a Heat gun.
Be prepared for painful trapped fingers as you try to pry them apart !

Once separated, unplug the wires from the Accessory Socket and put that half to one side.  :028:

Now we can start to access the lock. 
I suggest and recommend taking lots of Photo's as you work,
so you can refer back to them if you forget how something fits etc !

Have the Key in the Lock, release the handle and lift it up to the horizontal position.

This Photo shows the panel in which the Lock is fitted, and which can be partially removed :

Remove these 5 screws ( Sorry I missed one off the Photo !  :138: ) :

The Panel can now be eased away carefully, over the raised handle,
and tilted so that the back of the lock area can be accessed.
( The Panel can't be completely removed without further dismantling,
and it is not necessary to do so ).

Study the back of the Lock carefully to see the components, and where they fit / locate.
The silver "Cam Plate" rotates when the key is turned, and at the fully unlocked position,
( where the Handle would be released ) it comes into contact with the raised end of a spring, which
helps it to return from the "Handle Release" position to the Unlocked position when the Key is released.
A Ball bearing under spring pressure acts upon the underside of part of the Cam Plate
to act as a Detent for the different Key Positions :

Carefully remove the Allen bolt from the centre of the Cam Plate.
Mine was quite tight - try to avoid straining the components by holding
( or have an assistant hold ) the Cam Plate with Pliers to stop it from turning.
As the Bolt is undone the Cam Plate will rise up from the spring pressure
on the Detent Ball Bearing - recover the Ball Bearing as it is freed ( a Magnet is useful )
and also recover the spring underneath it.

Put the Bolt and its washer to one side, and study the now exposed brass part ( "Brass Dog" ),
that the Bolt had been screwed into.  Note its position and that one corner of the
square shape is missing - to ensure correct fitting onto the Cam Plate upon re-assembly :

With the Key still in the lock - note the position of the Key hole relative to its position in its housing.

The complete lock Cylinder with Barrel can now be pushed / withdrawn outwards,
and removed from the Top Box.  Again - note the shape and how it fits back into the Top Box.

Examining the Lock Barrel & Cylinder assembly you can now see that  :172: Locking Wafer !

Depress the Locking Wafer with the tip of a screwdriver, and you can then withdraw the Barrel.
Note that the "Brass Dog" is a separate part - don't remove it from the Cylinder,
and ensure that after separation from the Lock Barrel, it is not rotated in the Cylinder,
otherwise it will not line up with the Cam Plate when re-assembled.  :138:

Take the NEW Lock Barrel - with Key inserted, and start to push it into the Cylinder,
in the same orientation as the Barrel you just removed.  As the Barrel begins to enter
the Cylinder, the Locking Wafer will snag against the wall of the Cylinder,
and will need to be depressed with a thin screwdriver or similar tool. 

Push the Barrel all the way in, ensuring it lines up and engages with the Brass Dog -
Push the Barrel in until it Clicks into place and the Locking Wafer can be seen
to be holding it in place.  Check that you can turn the key and that the lock Barrel moves
in the Cylinder as you would expect. Use the Key to return the lock to the Unlocked position.

Reassemble the Cam Plate : Put the Detent Ball Bearing spring in its tube,
and sandwich the ball bearing between the spring and the Cam Plate.
( This is fiddly and there's a risk of dropping and losing the Ball Bearing -
If you can support the assembly horizontally the Ball Bearing will sit on top of the Spring
allowing you to carefully place the Cam Plate over it and press it down onto the end of the Brass Dog,
lining up that cut away corner shape.  Holding the Cam Plate down in position,
ensuring the Ball Bearing under spring pressure doesn't escape, refit the Allen Bolt ( with washer )
and tighten - again holding the Cam Plate with Pliers or similar to prevent straining the components.

Once the Cam Plate has been refitted, use the Key to check for correct operation,
and then return the lock to the Unlocked position.

The Lock panel assembly now needs to be fitted back to the Top Box.

The Peg protruding from the Cam Plate has to be engaged with the curved slot in the Locking Bar
shown in this Photo :

The Locking Bar will probably have fallen down too low for the Cam Plate to engage -
Note that the Locking Bar moves when the Handle is moved, and that you can also raise
the Locking Bar just by lifting it up with your fingers. ( It will actually lift all the way out ! ).

Once the Cam Plate Peg has engaged with the Locking Bar slot, the complete panel
can be positioned over the Handle, and the securing screws replaced.

With the five Lock Panel screws refitted, check again that the Lock works as it should.

Before reassembling the Top Box base inner and outer halves, clean out all the old glue
from the grooves and ridges using a suitable tool, and decide whether you are going to
use fresh glue ( I didn't re-glue mine ).

Secure the two Base halves with the 14 Torx screws, refit the lid with strengthening plates
and the four nuts, then refit the coloured lid with the 5 Torx screws making sure
the one with the washer and rubber washer goes back into the lower central hole.

Go and have a well deserved cup of Tea, or better still .....  :030:

I haven't tried this method on a Pannier ( yet ) but I suspect that the process will be similar,
where the two halves will be glued together and need heat to be applied to pull them apart
once the screws have been removed.

I also suspect that the complete cylinder cannot be removed from a Pannier,
as I believe the Cylinder is part of the carcass moulding,  and that the Locking wafer
will be accessible directly once the Cam Plate has been removed.

As and when I try this, I will update this Topic accordingly !

Cheers  :821:

Tyres and Wheels / Programming in new TPMS Sensors
« on: September 01, 2020, 08:23:22 pm »
Until very recently ONLY an authorised Triumph Dealer
( or someone with the official Triumph Diagnostics equipment )
could program new TPMS Sensors in to their Trophy.

A new Member of the Trophy Forum - T800XC
has written a Windows software Program
that can perform a few basic Tests and Maintenance Functions
INCLUDING a facility to program in new TPMS Sensors.

The "TigerTool" Software ( as at Version 3 ), originally written for the Tiger 800 Model,
currently needs a workaround applied to it for the Trophy ECU to be accessed,
however straightforward instructions for doing this are included over in this Topic :

TigerTool V3 diagnostics on the Trophy

Time Out - General Chat / Independence Day
« on: July 04, 2020, 08:23:54 am »
Wishing all of our U.S. Trophy Forum Members a Happy 4th of July.

Stay Safe over there !  :028:

Audio, Sat Nav, and Intercom / XM Antenna Plug & Socket ?
« on: April 23, 2020, 05:29:43 pm »
This is the Female Socket into which the ( US & Canadian market ) XM Radio Antenna plugs into :

This is the Plug that pushes into that Socket :

Does anyone know the specific name or designation of this type of connector ?
( Not just "DIN" or "FAKRA" which have many variants ! ).

Cheers  :821:

Accessories and Products / Luggage Rack for the Trophy Top Box / Trunk
« on: April 22, 2020, 05:00:44 pm »
With all this spare time I needed something to do, so I bought a Luggage Rack
to fit on the top of my Triumph Trophy Top Box.

After a bit of research & pinching other Member's ideas, I opted for the Givi E96B Luggage Rack,
which I bought from "Sportsbikeshop_Ltd" on eBay as they had the best price at the time ( 50.55 ).

You will need to find or make some parts to raise the height of the Rack by around 15mm.

I found some tubular stand off pieces from a previous TV Bracket mount that were just the right size,
but you could use any suitable size and colour of tube - around 17mm diameter, with a 6mm clearance hole.
The parts I used also happened to fit very nicely in some electricians Blind Blanking grommets -
the type normally used to protect cables entering a metal pattress box, and using these
with the Rubber washers provided in the Givi Fitting Kit gave the required clearance.

I used the Grommets to sit on the painted surface, with the tubular piece inside it,
then the rubber washer provided in the Givi mounting kit to sit between that and the Rack.

The next thing to do was work out exactly where to position the Rack on the Top Box lid.

Givi provide a couple of useful Templates for positioning and drilling the mounting holes
on two versions of their Top Boxes, but for the Trophy - where the height has to be increased
to clear the "Hump", this alters the positioning of the holes and the Templates should NOT be used.

After protecting the painted surface with masking tape, I carefully positioned the Rack,
taking measurements around the edges until I was completely happy with the alignment,
and then drew circles around the base of the mounts onto the Masking Tape.

After carefully double & triple checking the positioning of the Rack,
and having marked this on the Masking Tape, I drilled pilot holes through the Top box lid,
and through to the inside section of the Top Box, before opening the holes out to 7mm diameter.
( The mounting bolts used are 6mm diameter so this allows for a little adjustment if necessary ).

The Top Box and lid are both approximately 2mm thick, and by passing a bolt through from the
inside to the outside, measuring the stub that protruded, and subtracting this together with 4mm
for the thickness of the two sections of plastic from the length of the bolt, I was able to calculate
that the gap between the Top Box inner Section and the Painted Lid was approximately 5mm
at the rear mounting holes and 3.5mm at the front mounting holes.

Remove the lid by undoing the 5 x T20 Torx screws shown below,
noting the rubber "O" Ring and Washer on the forward central screw.

I had a selection of "Penny" washers - some 1.5mm thick and some 2.0mm, so it was easy to
make up the required size to fill the void between the Inner and Outer sections.   Using some
wide PVC tape, I stuck the Penny Washers in place over the drilled holes, and cut holes in the tape.

It was then simply a case of using the existing cup washers from the Givi Fixing Kit,
some longer M6 x 40mm Machine Screws with Countersunk heads, and another Penny Washer
under each of them to spread the load and reduce the strain on the plastic sections,
passing the Bolt through from the inside to above the lid,
and screwing them carefully and evenly into the Rack.

Job done !

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