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Topics - Coconut

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Article here :

According to the information posted, the manufacturer has found out that on some of the bikes,
the clutch cable may come in contact with the wiring harness which may damage it.
Should the harness be damaged, it may lead to a power failure, meaning electrical components
such as the headlights and the turn signals might malfunction or not function at all
and could even lead to the engine turning off.

Sounds very similar to the Trophy Ignition Switch wiring problem !  :084:

Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Engine won't start
« on: January 09, 2019, 11:25:27 AM »
I have started this Topic on behalf of Member Miggel, whose Trophy won't start,
after he initially contacted me by PM. 

Hopefully when we find a solution this will benefit other Members too !

During the Christmas holidays I changed my zumo with the new tomtomrider 550.
In addition, I have mounted 2 LED spotlights one connected to the minus of the 12 volt contact in glove box.
The engine is in the garage on the trickle charger from mid November.
Now the engine does not start anymore. No fuses have been blown.
Lamps burn radio also does it and all other things there are no error messages.
an idea what might be going on?

Have a look at this Topic :

HOW TO: Check the most common faults and issues.

Scroll down the page to “ENGINE - WON’T START”

There are many reasons why this can happen - hopefully the article will help,
but if not let me know and I will ask you some more questions !

I think I have to check the connections at the solenoid.
Could you let me know where I have to look.
Which fairings have to be disconnected?

The Starter Solenoid is just forward of the Main Battery.

If you remove the Battery cover : one screw, then lift the cover upwards
and towards the rear of the bike to release the two pegs
from their rubber grommets, and then look in there with a torch
you will be able to see it - check if either of the two Spade terminals are
loose or disconnected - they should just push back on if they are loose,
but are a bit fiddly to get at without further dismantling.

I dismantled right hand side firings.
I found the starter solenoid.
Nothing wrong there.
Pushed and seem to be connected.
I am on a dead end

OK, First of all - do you have a Test Meter and know how to use it ?

It is sometimes the case, that when things go wrong, they can be attributed to something
that has been changed since it was last working, so think whether you could have disturbed
any wiring connections etc when installing your new lights and Sat Nav ?

If you are convinced that isn't the issue, then read this Topic, which deals with a known issue
of the Ignition wiring at the base of the Ignition switch becoming severed :

Ignition Switch Wiring Failures.

If you switch the Ignition ON and hold the Starter button IN while moving the Handlebars fully left
and right, if the Starter then starts to spin, this will confirm you have this wiring fault.
( If the Starter still does not spin, the Ignition wiring MAY still be faulty ! ).

If the Ignition wiring is definitely OK, then these need to be checked :

The Starter Circuit has a number of safety over-rides that will prevent the engine from being started,
so the individual components need to be checked :
  • Is the Engine Kill switch in the RUN ( :138: ) position and operating correctly ?
  • Is Neutral Gear selected AND displayed on the Instrument Panel ?
    ( A fauty Gear Position Sensor can prevent the engine from being started ).
  • Is the Clutch pulled IN - and the Clutch Switch operating correctly ?
  • Is the Side Stand UP, and the Side Stand Switch Operating Correctly ?

When these Safety interlocks have been checked, move on to check these :

  • Main Battery - What is the Voltage without the Battery Tender connected and Ignition OFF ?
    It should be somewhere in the region of 12.8 to 13.2 Volts.
    If it is Lower than 12V, especially after being on the Battery Tender,
    then it is likely you need a new Battery, and that may be all that is wrong !
  • What happens with the Ignition switched ON and you press the Starter Button ?
    Can you hear the Starter Solenoid "clicking" ( in front of the Main Battery ) ?
    If so this could indicate Low Main Battery power, or poor connections to the Starter Solenoid,
    or a Faulty Solenoid, or faulty wiring to the Starter Motor, or a Faulty Starter Motor.
If NOTHING happens when you press the Starter button, there are some more checks to be done,
which require a Test Meter, some knowledge of how to use it, and a Circuit Diagram -
available in the official Service Manual.

  • Starter Solenoid - check the smaller Black wire with Spade terminal has a good connection to Ground.
  • Starter Solenoid - check the White wire with red strip has 12V when the Starter Button is pressed.
    If it does, suspect a Faulty Starter Solenoid.  If it does not ......
  • Check the Integrity of Fuse No.5 ( 15A ) which is for the Ignition and feeds the Ignition Relay.
  • Check the Operation of the Starter Relay ( behind the right side cover - Bank of 2 Relays,
    it is the one on the left as you look at them ).
  • Check the operation of the Starter Button, and the Kill Switch.

Hopefully these will help you identify the problem and fix it,
but if not then you may have to resort to having the Trophy recovered to a Dealer and let them fix it.

Let us know how you get on !


In the UK, FM radio is gradually being phased out, eventually to be replaced
with "DAB" ( Digital Audio Broadcasting ) Radio Stations. 
Some Radio Stations ( such as my personal favourite "Planet Rock" ) are no longer broadcast on FM,
but ARE available on DAB ( and Internet ) Radio. The Trophy does not have a DAB Radio :110:

I've been in touch with the nice people at RadioSound US - who make the Trophy Audio Unit,
who told me they have NO add-on modules to provide DAB Radio, and there are NO plans
for them to look into doing so in the future - due to the Trophy being discontinued.  :161:

BUT, they hinted that the USB Port might be an option for using a suitable device,
and pointed me in the direction of a Company called DENSION - who make a variety of
add-on audio modules ( mainly for Cars ), to receive DAB radio via the Car Head Unit.   :084:

Over the last few months, in consultation with some very helpful and knowledgeable guys at Dension,
between us we have come up with what is essentially a "Plug & Play" solution,
with a Configuration File specific to the Triumph Trophy SE,
allowing the DAB Radio Stations to be displayed on the Trophy Instrument Panel !  :062:

This utilises their Dension DAB+U DAB Radio Receiver.

( Edited 09/01/19 ! ) PLEASE NOTE that a DAB Antenna is also needed.
Orginally I tried a solution that was acceptable to me, but was not as good,
in terms of Signal Reception, as the DAB Radio in my car.
I have now found a dedicated DAB Antenna solution - Please see Post Reply #29 & 31 for details !

After negotiating with Dension, and obtaining approval from the Forum Administrator,
Dension are able to offer Trophy Forum Members a 20% Discount off the RRP of the DAB+U device until 31/03/19.
( RRP £126.87 reduced to £101.50 with FREE Shipping ! ).
To obtain the Discount, you will need a "Voucher Code".
I have agreed to help with distributing these so just send ME a Private Message via the Forum,
and I will send your Code with instructions on how to use it !
( You can also request your Voucher Code from Forum "Admin" ).

How it works :

The DAB+U device connects to the Trophy Audio System USB Port.
DAB Radio Stations are "mimicked" as being MP3 Tracks. 
The upper line of the Trophy Audio Display will show "DAB RADIO", and
the lower line of the Trophy Audio Display will show the name of the Radio Station.
The handlebar Audio Switch Cube buttons are used to change Stations, and other Operations.

Note :
A simple one-time operation to upload the specific Triumph Trophy Configuration file
to the Dension DAB+U device must be carried out by the User before first use. 

Please download the attached User Guide - for operating the DAB+U Radio,
by clicking the Link at the foot of this Post.  The User Guide also has instructions
for downloading the required Configuration file and uploading it to the DAB+U device.

What is needed :
I purchased the Dension DAB+U device and decided to locate it inside the Glove Box.
( It's not waterproof so that seemed a good place for it, with easy access to the USB Port,
and is a relatively short distance for the Antenna and Power connections ).

You may decide on an alternative installation, such as mounting the DAB+U adjacent to the Audio Unit
( Below the under Rider seat Stowage Box ), where there is room for it, and connections to the
Antenna and Power supplies are available, then utilise an alternative Antenna Solution mounted elsewhere ).

Please see NOTE above, and Post Replies #29 & 31
for a recommended dedicated DAB Antenna solution !

Alternatively - For receiving the DAB Radio signal, after a considerable amount of experimentation with different products,
the solution I first tried was to connect to the existing Trophy Antenna wiring,
using an Amplified DAB SMB Splitter cable, and to replace the screw in Trophy FM Mast
with a new "DAB / FM" Mast.  This preserves the reception and selection of FM and AM Radio stations.
This did result in a number of Signal Losses while riding around, whereas the dedicated DAB Antenna
Solution mentioned in later Posts is much more stable.

Items that are needed to utilise the existing Antenna are :

Amplified Antenna Splitter cable with DIN Male, DIN Female, SMB Female, and Power connectors.
See Photo - These can be found quite readily on Amazon / eBay etc, usually for around £15.00.
The Splitter cable is used to connect the DAB+U Unit into the existing Antenna line,
while still preserving it for using the FM / AM Radio :

SMB Male to SMB Female Right Angled extension cable ( 30cm ).
This isn't 100% necessary but is useful if following the same installation method,
as it provides a "Quick Disconnect" for whenever the Glove Box or Fairing are removed,
such as during routine maintenance / servicing.

Replacement screw in DAB Antenna Mast.
I tried using the original Trophy FM antenna, and although some DAB Stations could be received,
there was an unacceptably high number of instances where the Signal was lost.
Using a "proper" DAB Antenna Mast has resulted in far fewer "No Signal" reports.
This is the one I used - there are many others available :
DAB On Wheels Spare mast for Kinetic DRA-6001 ( £14.99 ).

A short ( 25cm ) USB Type A Male to Male cable is needed to connect the DAB+U device to the Trophy USB Port.
( The DAB+U device is supplied with a long USB cable, that might be useful if you decide to mount the device
somewhere other than inside the Glove Box.

Hardware installation ( DAB+U inside Glove Box ) :

Remove the Trophy Screen by undoing the six screws. 
Put the screen somewhere safe to protect it from getting scratched !

Remove the Glove Box, disconnecting the wires for the Accessory Socket, USB Socket, and Lock Solenoid.

Remove both Mirror Pods - Refer to this Topic for details of which screws need to be removed :
How To Remove the Fairing ...... Paragraphs 11 to 14.

Remove the panels surrounding the Instrument pack, as far as is necessary
to access the rear of the Instruments, where there is an in-line connector to the Trophy FM antenna.

Refer to this Topic for details of which screws need to be removed :
HOW TO: Fit Triumph Sat Nav Bracket .....

NOTE : There are two additional fixings that need to be removed - they are Plastic "Scrivets" -
inside the Mirror Pods - directly above each of the large headed Indicator retaining screws.
The Scrivets can be carefully unscrewed - also recover the plastic parts they screw into, to prevent losing them !

Locate the In-Line Trophy Antenna cable connector that runs through a Clip at the rear of the Instrument Panel.
Grasp the connector ( NOT the cable - to reduce the risk of damage ) and pull the connection apart.

Location of Antenna cable connection :

Connect the Male DIN Plug of the Amplified Splitter Cable to the Trophy Antenna wiring socket,
and the Female DIN Socket of the Amplified Splitter Cable to the Male DIN plug of the Trophy Antenna Fly Lead.

Route the SMB Male connector and Power cable across and into the area below the Glove Box.
Keep the wiring tidy, routing it so as not become trapped when refitting the Instrument Pack.

Prepare the Glove Box to accept entry of the Antenna Fly Lead.

You might decide to just a drill a hole and pass the Antenna cable through,
but for a neater method, and to reduce the potential for water ingress, I made an access
immediately below the Accessory Power socket, ( which I have previously removed
from my Trophy and replaced with a combined Voltmeter / USB Power Socket ).

To remove the Accessory socket from the Glove Box is a bit fiddly - you need to release the two small tabs
inside the socket by depressing them while pushing / pulling the metal part out of the Glove Box.
A thin blade or small screwdriver can also be used carefully, to pry the socket apart.

I filed a small groove - the same width as the Antenna Fly Lead, and sufficiently deep
so as not to interfere with replacing the Voltmeter, ( or Accessory Socket ),
and fed the SMB Male to Female Extension Lead into the Glove Box,
so that the Female socket was inside the Glove Box, ready for connection to the DAB+U. 
Refit the Accessory power socket ( or Voltmeter ).

Splice the Power cable ( which has an In-Line fuseholder )
into the Positive Feed to the Glove Box Accessory Socket.
( You may decide or prefer to use an alternative Power Source ).

Connect the SMB Female antenna connector from the Amplified Splitter Cable,
to the SMB Male Plug of the Extension lead emerging from the Glove Box.

Reconnect the Glove Box Accessory Socket wiring, USB Port, and Solenoid Lock wiring.

Place the Glove Box loosely back into position, and use the short USB Type A Male to Male Cable
to connect the Lower of the two DAB+U USB ports to the Trophy USB socket.

Unscrew the Trophy FM Antenna mast and replace it with the new DAB Antenna Mast.

After the physical installation, the system needs to be commissioned:

Follow the User Guide that and can be downloaded from the Link at the end of this Post.

Have the Trophy in a location where there is good DAB Radio reception.

Switch ON the Ignition - Start the engine to prevent draining the battery,
unless in a confined space where the exhaust fumes would be hazardous.

Switch the Audio Output to "SPEAKERS" ( Press and hold the "M" Button to access the Audio Setup Menu,
scroll down to AUDIO OUTPUT, select SPEAKERS, Press "i" then EXIT out of the Menus ).

Press "M" repeatedly if necessary, to select "USB" as the Source -
the Dension DAB+U device should be shown as "DBU31.220.5.4."

The DAB Radio now needs to Scan for DAB Radio Stations - Refer to the User Guide.

When SCANNING has completed the DAB+U will restart and is then ready for use.  :028:

DAB Radio Stations are selected by using the handlebar Audio Switch Cube buttons - pressing
">> Next Track" or "<< Previous Track" for the Next or Previous alphabetically stored Radio Stations.

Triumph Trophy Forum Member Discount
To purchase the Dension DAB+U device and receive a 20% discount, with FREE Shipping,
Go to the Dension Web Shop and Enter your Voucher Code at the Checkout.
Note that you will need to register on their Web Site before you can use the Voucher.

Send me ( or "Admin" ) a Private Message to request your Voucher Code !

On Two Wheels - Bikers Chat / Institute of Advanced Motorcycling
« on: October 15, 2018, 08:02:51 PM »
I'm not normally one for blowing my own trumpet, but am feeling rather proud after this weekend ....

I'm now a fully paid up and qualified Member of the Institute of Advanced Motorcyclists ( IAM ),
who I wholeheartedly recommend to anyone that wants to improve their riding skills,
and become a better, safer rider.  ( Other organisations are available ! ).

Those familiar with my motorcycling history will know that I lost my elder brother to a Bike crash
just over 16 years ago, which I had to deal with and come to terms with,
and for a while I stopped riding altogether to save my parents anxiety - as I was now their eldest Son.

After my Parents had passed away I returned to motorcycling on a Launch Model Trophy,
and after just 6 months managed to crash it quite spectacularly  :138:
I genuinely thought, as I slid along the road, verge and hedgerow,
that I was about to join my Brother !  :159:

But enough of that, 3 and a bit years later, with the Trophy being discontinued,
I could afford the Insurance Premium again, and missed the thrill of the Trophy Triple,
so I bought one of the last Trophy bikes available.

I first became aware of the Courses that IAM offer from another Forum Member ( Vansflyer ),
who lives not far from me, and who I met up with after announcing my return to riding,
when he offered to take me out for a ride and a chat ......
My confidence needed some restoration, and my Riding skills needed improvement !

Vansflyer encouraged me to join a local IAM group,
and I signed up for the Advanced Bike Course - I'm so glad I followed his advice.  :169:

After a number of "Observed Rides" with my allocated "Observer" / Tutor / Mentor,
( who is a Harley Rider, but don't hold that against him, he's a really decent guy ! ),
I was declared "Ready for Test" - and booked the date - Yesterday at 11:00 Hrs.

The weather was absolutely awful - Heavy rain, which I do not enjoy riding in
at the best of times, but the examiner had a chat with me and put me at ease. 

The Test ride lasted just over an hour, comprising a variety of roads - Single and Dual Carriageway,
Speed Restrictions, National Speed Limits, through Towns, Villages, Open Roads & "Twisties". 

Somehow I managed to put the nerves to one side,
and rode what I thought was my best ride ever !

At the debrief he cut the suspense short and agreed with me, saying,
"That was excellent - I'm awarding you a 'F1RST' - Your Brother would be proud of you !"
( Pause to clear large lump forming in throat ! )

..... but that's not the end by any means, just the beginning -
We should all aim to learn something new and improve our skills every time we ride,
so I'll be spending a lot more time with my new found friends at my local IAM Group.

If, like me, and I suspect this applies to the majority of motorcyclists, you've not had any formal
motorcycle training, other than a few lessons to get your initial Bike Licence,
then PLEASE - Have a look at the IAM Web Site, or any other similar organisations such as ROSPA,
and see what they can offer you !

For less than the cost of most Insurance Excess charges,
an Advanced Course - or even just one tip - picked up on your first "Lesson"
could prevent a crash and expensive damage to your beloved Trophy,
will make you safer on the road - for you own benefit and the benefit of other Road Users,
and will give your relatives a little peace of mind knowing that you are doing all you can
to stay safe and become a better rider.

Cheers  :821:



Time Out - General Chat / Time Out !
« on: October 10, 2018, 08:46:25 PM »
Been busy catching up on the Forum, and decided to take a break ........  :153:

( Click on the Picture to read the label ! )

I've compiled a list of the most common issues to be aware of when buying a previously owned Trophy.

To keep this Topic as a Reference rather than Discussion Topic,
I have "locked" it - but please feel free to send me a PM with anything I've missed off the list !  :169:


The Trophy first produced in 2012 was discontinued in 2017,
( There may have been no actual Production since 2016 ).

All Trophy models had 2 years unlimited mileage warranty from the date of first registration.

In addition to the usual checking of Service Records,
here is a list of things to keep an eye out for when buying a Previously owned Trophy :

Handbooks :
There should be 3 ( 2 for the Non SE Model ).
Owners Handbook, Service Handbook, and Audio Handbook.
These may be found in a storage recess on the underside of the Pillion Seat.

Audio Software Version :
ALL US / Canadian Export Models ( But NOT applicable to any other Markets ).
Check the Audio Software Version.  The first Software release ( Version 1.04A ) had a "bug"
that in some instances could result in the XM Radio Audio module not shutting down
when the Ignition was turned Off, resulting in the Main Battery being completely drained,
which then required replacement of the Main Battery.
A Software update was released ( Version 1.04E ) that fixed this issue,
but there are many Trophies that have not been updated. 
See this Topic ( one of many ) for details on how to check the Software Version :
Help Needed: Battery Drained, Again

Cylinder Head “Upgrade”

There was an "issue" with some of the very first Trophy production bikes
where the Cyclinder Head could develop a rattling noise.

Triumph didn't issue a "Recall" for this, but did offer a Free of charge "Upgrade"
which involved a modifcation to the Cylinder Head.

This only applied to Trophy models with VIN Number up to 602960,
after which the Modification was already incorporated.

There is a very old Topic - dating back to November 2013, ( which runs to 65 pages ! ) here :

Engine up-grade email from Triumph

ECU RECALL 2012-13.
The first few Trophies from VIN Number 561284 to 637165 were subject to an ECU Recall,
so check with a Triumph Dealer that this has been done if it falls withn that VIN Range.

Centre Stand Recall ( RM2013/033 )
Up to December 2013 - There was a Centre Stand Recall to add a strengthening bracket.
After that date a modification to the Frame was utilised and the bracket was not needed.
Again, Check with a Triumph Dealer to see if your VIN Number was affected,
and whether the Recall has been carried out.

Other Recalls and Service Bulletins
Any Triumph Dealer shoud be able to confirm which other Recalls and TSB's are applicable,
and whether they have been carried out.  These incude, but may not be limited to :
TSB 473 - Side Stand Pivot Bolt - Retorque ( 20 Nm ) -
With thanks to Member Novocatrian for the information on this one, and,
TSB 486 - Gear Change Pedal - reposition.

Ignition Wiring Fault
A number of Trophy Owners ( all Years ) have reported failure of the Ignition switch wiring,
due to it being mis-routed around the Headstock and becoming stretched when the handlebars
are turned fully right - this can result in wire(s) being pulled out of the base of the Ignition switch,
and the engine cutting our or not starting.
Check the handlebars for free movement from lock to lock with the Ignition ON.
If faulty the Ignition or some circuits may switch Off briefly when the handlebars are turned 
fully to the right.  See this Topic for more information : Ignition Switch DIY Repair.

Front Disc Brakes :
These seem to be prone to developing what appears to be Warping of the discs.
While the Discs may be warped, this could also be due to the "Bobbins"
on which the Discs Semi-Float, becoming seized, and the Discs running out of true -
though not warped, in such a condition they can exhibit the same "pulsing"
that would be experienced if they were warped, but this can be remedied
by cleaning and freeing the Bobbins with proprietary Brake Cleaner.
Topic ( amongst many others ) here : Front Brakes Pulsing

Final Drive Casing Corrosion :
Look for peeling or bubbling black paint indicating that the underlying alloy casing is corroding.

Radiator Corrosion :
Difficult to see and access behind the Fairing Panels, but some Members have reported
corrosion of the Radiator, with the Paint covering flaking away.

Coolant Leaks
Check the expansion Tank level - visible from inside the left front wheel arch,
and for any obvious signs of leaks on the shop floor - sometimes attributable to loose hose clamps.

Oil Leaks :
Check underneath the Trophy for any signs of an Oil leak -
sometimes attributable to loose Crankcase bolts.

Rear Suspension lower Drag Link Bearings :
If these Bearings seize ( particularly the forward one ) it can lead to BREAKAGE of the Drag Link,
as discussed in detail here : Drag Link failure - Rear Suspension
They are scheduled to be stripped down, inspected and lubricated every 20,000 miles, or 2 years.
Many Members now carry out this procedure routinely at least every year.  :169:

Gear Change Pedal Pivot Bolt breakage :
( Also applies to the Rear Brake Pedal Pivot Bolt ). 
Several Members have had this part break - shearing off flush with the engine casing,
resulting in being unable to change gear, and the broken stud having to be drilled out.
Check for smooth and free operation of the Pivot.
The same part is used on the Rear Brake Pedal but for some reason this seems far less prone to breaking.
Topic here : History of Shifter Lever bolt breaking ?

"Diagnostic Trouble Codes" ( DTC's ) - Triumph's Name for "Fault Codes :
These can be checked for and displayed on the Instrument Panel.
See this Topic for how to do that, and check at the foot of Post Reply #8 to download
a list of the various DTC's that may be displayed, with a brief description of their meaning :
Servicing Data, Reference Info. & DTC ( Fault ) Codes

Heated Handlebar Grips :
Note that every Trophy is equipped with the Handlebar Switch
for Heated Handlebar Grips - but the Grips themselves are an Optional Accessory,
so they may not be fitted - Some Dealers will advertise the Bike has Heated Grips
because of the switch being there, without having checked they are actually fitted !
Note that the Heated Grips only heat up when the engine is running.

TPMS ( Tyre Pressure Monitoring System ) :
All Trophy SE Models had TPMS as standard equipment from new. 
The non SE Model had this as an Option.
With age, the internal sensor batteries drain, throwing up a 
"WARNING - BATTERY LOW FRONT ( or REAR ) TYRE" Message on the Instrument Panel.
The TPMS Sensors are not designed to have their batteries replaced,
and the complete sensor would normally need to be replaced.
( Some Members have had limited success in breaking open the Sensor casing
and soldering new batteries in ). 
Some Owners have decided to have the TPMS system disabled by a Dealer,
or by use of the After Market "DealerTool" device,
so that the nagging Warning Message is not displayed at all.
Check during a Test Ride that the TPMS system is functioning -
the Pressures only appear in the display after riding for a short distance.

Motorised Screen :
Check for smooth travel across the full range UP and DOWN -
Some Screens have been reported to be temperamental - either sticking,
or refusing to move UP or DOWN beyond a certain point.

Top Box & Lock Barrel :
The Triumph Top Box is an optional accessory.
All NEW Trophies were supplied with a spare lock barrel for use in the Top Box,
negating the need for a separate key.  It was usually found inside the Tool Roll
under the riders seat, or in the Glove Box.
Check this is present if the Trophy you are considering doesn't have a Top Box,
especially if you may get a TopBox at a later date - it will be difficult to get a new Barrel keyed alike.

Cheers  :821:

Triumph discontinued the Trophy as they think the Market is not there for Sports Tourers
and are concentrating their efforts on other Markets such as Adventure, Classic, Street ....

BMW seem to disagree and have launched their new BMW R 1250 RT  :164:

Tyres and Wheels / Leaky Tyre Valve !
« on: September 15, 2018, 08:44:04 AM »
While checking my Tyre pressures the other day ( as I always do ),
prior to a planned ride, on removing the dust cap from the rear tyre
there was a gentle Hissing sound !
( Probably a loud Hissing sound to someone with better hearing than me !  :008: )

A simple matter of tightening the valve up with a Valve Tool cured the problem.  :169:

How many Members don't have one of these Tools ?

Whenever checking your Tyre Pressures have a good listen for air escaping from the valve,
and use the good old tried and tested method of wiping some "spit" across the top of the valve
to see if it forms an expanding bubble - indicating a leak.

If this had occurred out on the road - with only the dust cap to prevent the air escaping,
I could have been left stranded, so I now carry my Valve Tool on the bike.  :028:

Cheers  :821:

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