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Topics - Coconut

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Looking for something to do / somewhere to go on Sunday ?

How about this ..... Near Leek, Staffordshire, UK ( Postcode ST13 8SW ).

How are you're riding skills holding up? Are you happy with your skill level?
Think you can be a better rider? Why not come down to the Bikers' Breakfast
at Tittesworth Reservoir near leek on Sunday and have your riding assessed
by our excellent team of BikeSense Instructors and IAM Observers?

You can pre-book your slot by calling 0300 111 8012 or emailing,
times available are 10:30, 11:15, 12:00, 12:45 & 13:30.

The event runs from 10am to 2pm with lots of stands and free bacon or sausage baps......
and altough places are limited some places mey be still available for taster sessions,
so just ask at the Think Bike stand.....see you Sunday.

Bikers Breakfast, Tittesworth.

I'm hoping to be there - on the IAM stand - come and say "Hi"  :028:

I've started this separate Topic, for clarity, but Members should also refer to this Topic,
if the wiring at the Fusebox, as described below, is found to be intact :

Ignition Switch Wiring Failures.
( Where a break of certain wires at the Ignition switch can result in this, and other faults ).

Fuse No.6 ( 15A ) of the Rear Fusebox, controls the Horn, Position Lights, Brake Light,
and Top Box Power ( when the Top Box optionn has been fitted ).

Remove the left side panel to access the Fuseboxes.
( Disconnect the Heated Seat Switch if fitted
so the Panel can be placed out of harms way ! ).

Using test equipment, check that Fuse No.6 ( 15A ) is intact.

Next, using a suitable Voltmeter, ( or Bulb and wires ), remove he Fuse and check
that there is Voltage at the Input side of the Fuse ( the side nearest the centre of the bike ).
Main Battery voltage should be present at this terminal with the Ignition OFF :

If Voltage is present at the Input side of the Fuse, and the Fuse is intact,
there should be Voltage present at the Output side of the fuse when the fuse is inserted,
and out via the Orange wire running to the Ignition Switch Multi Plug, and a second wire
coloured Green with a Brown Stripe to the Top Box Power Relay.

The wires underneath the Fusebox are tricky to get at, and need a little careful dismantling.
Take into account that there are permanently LIVE wires entering the Fusebox,
so it is recommended that the Main Battery is disconnected prior to dismantling,
to guard against any inadvertent Short circuits to the frame !

Depress the catch in the side of the twin Relay Housing attached to the Fusebox,
lift the Relays Housing up, and move it out of the way. 

If the Heated Rider seat option is fitted, Depress the catch on the side of the connector
just rearwards of the Fusebox, and then lift the Connector socket upwards off its Mounting bracket
and position it out of the way.

The Rear fusebox can then be removed from its bracket - depress the catch and lift the fusebox upwards.

There is not a lot of slack in the wiring loom, but the Fusebox can then be CAREFULLY manoeuvred
around the various brackets until it can be turned upside down to examine the contacts underneath.

The large Brown wire shown below provides Power to the Input side of Fuse No.5,
which is connected via a metal strip to Fuse No.6 ( and others ) as shown.

Check the integrity of the wiring and connections using Test equipment,
and check the wiring loom for any signs of chafing or damage.

If any problems are found with the Fusebox or wiring, a repaiir will be needed -
the Fusebox is integral to the main Harness and is not available as a separate part.

If all is well, refer back to the Ignition Switch Wiring Fault Topic mentioned at the start of this Message.


Nice sunny start to the day - I'll be helping out on the IAM Roadsmart Stand today :

Bikers Breakfast - Port Vale F.C. Stoke On Trent

FREE Bacon or Sausage Buttie to all Riders & Pillions !

That's not the only reason I'm going !  :745: ....

As well a free bacon or sausage bap we have lots going on at this Sundays' Bikers' Breakfast
at Port Vale FC. The new Info Hub provides the centre for our competition (with lots of prizes),
the Buzzwire (win a Think Bike mug), Info talks on crash investigation, MAG activities and first aid for bikers,
as well as collection point for vouchers. Try out your skill levels for free at the Moto Gymkhana,
top riders only required here!!! And we have more stands than ever at this years events,
with Staffordshire Triumph, Taylor Brothers Motorcycles, IAM, Mag CMA, Police Forensics, Highways England,
Melimoto, Secure Autotrack, BikeSafe, Motorcycle Funerals, Blood Bikes, Think Bike, Staffs FARS and a
Prostrate Charity. Lots going on and hopefully hundreds of bikers to meet so see you there from 10am.

Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / New Battery
« on: May 19, 2019, 01:45:10 PM »
Just for information, if anyone ( else ) is looking for a new Battery for their Trophy,
Halfords currently have the standard Yuasa YTX20L-BS Battery available at £72.00
with free delivery or collection ( Pre-Filled and ready to use ),
or the slightly more powerful YTX20HL-BS at £82.00,
( Extra 40 CCA and 400 Grammes lighter, otherwise identical in size / fittings ).

These seem like very competitive prices !  :169: 

Just don't ask me why I was looking  :157:

Items for Sale / Trophy ( 2012 0n ) Side Stand Enlarger "Foot"
« on: May 17, 2019, 07:41:43 PM »
Prompted by a Forum Topic I contacted the previous manufacturers of a Side Stand Enlarger "Foot"
for our model of Trophy.  They confirmed that production has ceased and no more will be made.

On checking they found that they still had just two of these left, and reduced the price
from £46.00 to £40.00..... So I bought them both !

I have fitted one on my Trophy, and the other one, being the last one available - ever -
is offered For Sale here at that price, plus the cost of postage.
( UK Postage will be £3.55 for 1st Class "Small Parcel" Post ).

Side by Side comparison :

Fitted :

Raised :

Components :

First come, First served -  Please PM if interested.   :001:

Sutton Motorcycles, Watling Street, Tamworth, B77 5AD
are a new Triumph "Birmingham East" Dealership.

Currently a Honda dealer, the store is expected to be split across the two makes,
and have all the corporate signage etc in place by the end of the year.  :152:

Article here :

According to the information posted, the manufacturer has found out that on some of the bikes,
the clutch cable may come in contact with the wiring harness which may damage it.
Should the harness be damaged, it may lead to a power failure, meaning electrical components
such as the headlights and the turn signals might malfunction or not function at all
and could even lead to the engine turning off.

Sounds very similar to the Trophy Ignition Switch wiring problem !  :084:

Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Engine won't start
« on: January 09, 2019, 11:25:27 AM »
I have started this Topic on behalf of Member Miggel, whose Trophy won't start,
after he initially contacted me by PM. 

Hopefully when we find a solution this will benefit other Members too !

During the Christmas holidays I changed my zumo with the new tomtomrider 550.
In addition, I have mounted 2 LED spotlights one connected to the minus of the 12 volt contact in glove box.
The engine is in the garage on the trickle charger from mid November.
Now the engine does not start anymore. No fuses have been blown.
Lamps burn radio also does it and all other things there are no error messages.
an idea what might be going on?

Have a look at this Topic :

HOW TO: Check the most common faults and issues.

Scroll down the page to “ENGINE - WON’T START”

There are many reasons why this can happen - hopefully the article will help,
but if not let me know and I will ask you some more questions !

I think I have to check the connections at the solenoid.
Could you let me know where I have to look.
Which fairings have to be disconnected?

The Starter Solenoid is just forward of the Main Battery.

If you remove the Battery cover : one screw, then lift the cover upwards
and towards the rear of the bike to release the two pegs
from their rubber grommets, and then look in there with a torch
you will be able to see it - check if either of the two Spade terminals are
loose or disconnected - they should just push back on if they are loose,
but are a bit fiddly to get at without further dismantling.

I dismantled right hand side firings.
I found the starter solenoid.
Nothing wrong there.
Pushed and seem to be connected.
I am on a dead end

OK, First of all - do you have a Test Meter and know how to use it ?

It is sometimes the case, that when things go wrong, they can be attributed to something
that has been changed since it was last working, so think whether you could have disturbed
any wiring connections etc when installing your new lights and Sat Nav ?

If you are convinced that isn't the issue, then read this Topic, which deals with a known issue
of the Ignition wiring at the base of the Ignition switch becoming severed :

Ignition Switch Wiring Failures.

If you switch the Ignition ON and hold the Starter button IN while moving the Handlebars fully left
and right, if the Starter then starts to spin, this will confirm you have this wiring fault.
( If the Starter still does not spin, the Ignition wiring MAY still be faulty ! ).

If the Ignition wiring is definitely OK, then these need to be checked :

The Starter Circuit has a number of safety over-rides that will prevent the engine from being started,
so the individual components need to be checked :
  • Is the Engine Kill switch in the RUN ( :138: ) position and operating correctly ?
  • Is Neutral Gear selected AND displayed on the Instrument Panel ?
    ( A fauty Gear Position Sensor can prevent the engine from being started ).
  • Is the Clutch pulled IN - and the Clutch Switch operating correctly ?
  • Is the Side Stand UP, and the Side Stand Switch Operating Correctly ?

When these Safety interlocks have been checked, move on to check these :

  • Main Battery - What is the Voltage without the Battery Tender connected and Ignition OFF ?
    It should be somewhere in the region of 12.8 to 13.2 Volts.
    If it is Lower than 12V, especially after being on the Battery Tender,
    then it is likely you need a new Battery, and that may be all that is wrong !
  • What happens with the Ignition switched ON and you press the Starter Button ?
    Can you hear the Starter Solenoid "clicking" ( in front of the Main Battery ) ?
    If so this could indicate Low Main Battery power, or poor connections to the Starter Solenoid,
    or a Faulty Solenoid, or faulty wiring to the Starter Motor, or a Faulty Starter Motor.
If NOTHING happens when you press the Starter button, there are some more checks to be done,
which require a Test Meter, some knowledge of how to use it, and a Circuit Diagram -
available in the official Service Manual.

  • Starter Solenoid - check the smaller Black wire with Spade terminal has a good connection to Ground.
  • Starter Solenoid - check the White wire with red strip has 12V when the Starter Button is pressed.
    If it does, suspect a Faulty Starter Solenoid.  If it does not ......
  • Check the Integrity of Fuse No.5 ( 15A ) which is for the Ignition and feeds the Ignition Relay.
  • Check the Operation of the Starter Relay ( behind the right side cover - Bank of 2 Relays,
    it is the one on the left as you look at them ).
  • Check the operation of the Starter Button, and the Kill Switch.

Hopefully these will help you identify the problem and fix it,
but if not then you may have to resort to having the Trophy recovered to a Dealer and let them fix it.

Let us know how you get on !


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