I've been wanting to lower my rider footpegs for some time now.  I've been leaning toward the Knight Designs kit but guess I'm so cheap frugal and I really don't want to eliminate the rubber cover so I can't make myself complete the purchase.  Recently I stumbled across some site while searching for alternatives and discovered an ultra-distance rider who fabricated a set of lowering blocks which made me think of alternatives.  Having a 3-D printer and KNOWING PLASTIC WILL NEVER BE STRONG ENOUGH (someone will certainly state the obvious) I decided to try my hand at mocking up some sort of "hanger" to lower the existing pegs.  They could even be shorter and still work fine I believe.

Although I had to reprint a couple of times to get the length and holes placed correctly this seems to work.  Knowing me I'll more than likely not really proceed with casting in metal or even having them created by a fabricating shop ($$$$ again) still fun to see what I came up with.  I may try and submit the "plans" to a couple of online fabrication shops to see the prices quoted just for Grins.  Just me playing really.  Oh, and in case anyone is interested I tried an aftermarket "off-road" set of pegs I had fitted to my Suzuki DL-650 V-Strom and they fit the Trophy fine.  So perhaps I will expand my search for others and stop wasting time with this.  Nah!

Bought bike new October 2017 in Florida.  Rode to Mississippi for first oil change (500ish miles) then across to New Mexico.  Changed oil September 2018 with factory recommended Castrol Power 1 4T 10W40 at that time and again this month October 2019.  Basically bike has had Castrol Motorcycle 10W40 since new.  Apparently sheared down to about 10W30 per this report if I read it right.  Decided to pay for TBN this time, well just because.  I ride year round so may try the 20W50 next time but wonder about cold starts in winter.  In any case posting report for future reference if anyone is interested.  Of course, nothing is requiring me to continue using Castrol but it was about the same price as other full synthetic oils when I was purchasing.

Can anyone confirm if I remove any of the bolts that surround the fuel tank filler neck that there aren't small nuts that will fall inside?  OK, perhaps silly question but I want to see if I can fit a RAM ball mount to the neck area that requires I remove a couple of the existing Hex bolts/screws.  Looking at the parts diagram it appears they screw into the "Filler Neck Moulding" instead of individual fittings.  I'd rather not start to loosen them and hear "plink" or even "plop". 

Not sure where to post this so figured this might be the place to ask.

Haven't ridden my 2015 for a couple of weeks so decided to take it out for a quick trip and to lunch.  Normal procedure is to turn key to run, wait for suspension to do what it does and then press the start button. This time, it may have cycled through the suspension stuff but now the lower portion of the display toggles rapidly between the two items in the attached (I hope) images.  I always keep the radio off as I never use it so I'm accustomed to seeing the "Radio Off" message but don't recall seeing the other one.  It flashes back and forth between them until I start the bike and then it appears normal.  I did tighten the terminals at the battery since about anything possibly related to electrical issues the normal 1st response is "Did you check the battery terminals?" so yes I did. 




I do have a Dealer Tool that I can attach in case it's something that got turned on somehow.  I did notice when I initially started it for teh first time the radio was o WX and really low volume so I did have to press the volume control to turn it off.  Strange because I never turn on the radio so it's always "Radio Off".