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Messages - CAM

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3
I really like the Neotec also but just a heads up. Whenever you have the visor off, check the hinge screws for tightness. I had one back out on a trip but luckily it was unable to exit the helmet but did result in a floppy lower until I could stop to repair. Once home, I used a little thread lock - nail varnish - on the screws just for peace of mind.

4
Regarding clunky shifting, the Trophy is the first shafty I've owned but wondering if the whole shaft drive system and it's weight causes harder noisier shifts than a chain drive. I've also noticed on mine, especially downshifting, that if I cover the shifter with more foot rather than just my toe, I get much smoother shifts. My 1050 sprint shifts mega smooth but has many more miles on it so maybe the Trophy trans will break in as the miles increase.

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Time Out - General Chat / Re: Favourite Beer Thread
« on: June 07, 2020, 06:35:43 pm »
My fav was always Double Diamond but I have not seen it over here in years so my go to canned beer is now Wells IPA. If I'm in a pub I'll go for a bitter or IPA pint.

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Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Re: Front LED Marker Lamps
« on: June 07, 2020, 06:26:07 pm »
*Originally Posted by dandrumheller [+]
I suspect (though could well be mistaken) that you would somehow need to run "always on" power to the lamp socket in the front for the white DRL function on these.  Many of us here have used this setup instead - easy install and already configured for easy running of the always on power for DRL function.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NGUKZVA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed these a few weeks ago and removed them yesterday because I just did not like the super white colour. They definitely did the job of adding considerable visibility to the front end but I did have a few drivers flash their lights at me....in the daytime! I've never had that before with only my headlights and Denali lights operating, even at night. If they were closer to the Halogen colour I would probably have stuck with them and suffered the few irate cagers.

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Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Re: Fuse adapter
« on: June 07, 2020, 06:04:41 pm »
If you are ever close by PM me and we can meet. You might also consider attending next years RAT party in Nelson BC. It is a 3 day gathering of Triumph owners held in July around the 15th each year...most riding in on Triumphs though a few do arrive on other makes...riding the fantastic Kootenay roads, enjoying seeing old friends from previous years and attending the Saturday night banquet at the Adventure Hotel. Riders show every year from SK, AB, BC, WA, OR, ID, and Montana. Not sure if I abbreviated the States correctly, but anyway, western states and provinces are represented. It's a good gathering and I'm sure you would enjoy it. This years event was just recently cancelled as the organizer could not count on the Virus imposed travel restrictions being lifted in time.

I hope this message is OK here rather than in the Events and Meetings section.

8
Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Re: Fuse adapter
« on: June 05, 2020, 06:35:32 pm »
When I installed the light bar on the trunk lid I tapped the bikes wiring directly behind the rear light which is a very dry though dusty area, on my bike anyway. Been good for 5 years now through some pretty wet weather. The only wires I have ever soldered on a bike are the Stator to RR wires as they run high current thus lots of heat and are known on many models to melt OEM connectors. When bike manufacturers build wire looms, they most often use a crimp type joint when splicing into another wire though I have no idea why they do that as opposed to soldering the splice. I think the posi type of connector has become the standard that accessory manufacturers can add to kits for a quick installation by those who possibly do not own soldering tools and they rule out the likelihood of cold solder joints by inexperienced installers.
But at the end of the day, whatever works for each of us is the way to go.

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