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Hi Guys ( and gals),
Good to be acquainted with you all.
I live near Peterborough, England and own a Trophy 1200 that was made in Hinckley in 2000 and is `British Racing Green` in colour. This is my second Trophy of the same model I`ve owned. It`s done 56K miles and I`m giving it a `health check` at present.  I`ve just carried out a compression test on her and am trying to find out what the minimum cylinder psi is. I have the Haynes manual but can`t find psi specs in it.
I`ve checked valve clearances and found some to be outside recommended gap. I was able to swap shims around to now have all cylinders within tolerances given in Haynes manual.
Can anyone advise what minimum psi for each cylinder is on a cold engine?  At present I`m getting 100 psi on cylinders 1,2 & 4, and 85 psi on cyl 3.  Cyl 3 psi does look very low so going to look into that straight away.  But is 100 psi acceptable for each cylinder?
Would be grateful for any advice.
Cheers,
Alan
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At night I will take pictures, now it is sunny and they barely see each other.
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Looks like I will be avoiding the motorways, which is no bad thing.
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On Two Wheels - Bikers Chat / Re: Triumph Rocket 3R
« Last post by Verdun95 on Today at 09:24:25 AM »
If and when you have a chance have a look at the TFC version.....
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Thanks!
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On Two Wheels - Bikers Chat / Re: Triumph Rocket 3R
« Last post by tdragger on Today at 03:22:09 AM »
Sat on and R and a GT today.  Both feel slightly smaller than my 06 Rocket.  Would love to take them out for a spin.
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Very nice collection!
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Triumph Trophy - General Chat / Re: Obsolescence
« Last post by RedMerle on Today at 12:09:21 AM »
Imagine how I felt when I bought a brand new, last of the line , Triumph Daytona 1200, in 1998, only to find that the discontinued all accessories at pretty much the same time that they sold me the bike (just as they were finishing production at Hinckley).

Never did manage to fit a rack as a result  :010:
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The OP said his 2017 Trophy had only been ridden for 1200 miles
so I doubt very much whether it had an Oil Change and the “wrong”
oil was put in by the previous owner !

I think it’s more likely to have been for the reason already explained,
but this does ( also ) highlight the importance of using oil of the correct specification.

Semi or fully synthetic 10W/40 or 10W/50 motorcycle engine oil
which meets specification API SH (or higher) and JASO MA,
such as Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 (fully synthetic) engine oil,
sold as Castrol Power RS Racing 4T 10W-40 (fully synthetic) in some countries

My supplying Dealer uses FUCHS Silkolene Pro 4 10W-40
Extreme Protection Fully Synthetic Ester Oil.



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Most likely the prior owner did not manage the clutch well and/or put the wrong oil in that probably had friction modifiers, such as are in diesel oil(rotella). Castrol RS racing is the reccomended oil, which I use and it seems to do well.
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