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Offline Coconut

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HOW TO : Check the most common faults & issues. Page 2 ( E-O )
« on: December 30, 2013, 11:28:32 am »
Subjects are listed alphabetically. THIS IS PAGE 2 (  E - O )

PAGE 1 ( A - D ) CAN BE FOUND HERE : HOW TO : Check the most common faults & issues Page 1

PAGE 3 ( P - Z ) CAN BE FOUND HERE : HOW TO : Check the most common faults & issues Page 3

The intention of this Topic is to provide a Quick reference to apparently common faults or issues that you
may experience with your new Trophy, and to provide a few tips, and things to check that may help to resolve them.


The information given below is provided “as is”, with no guarantee that anything stated is factually correct.
Information has been drawn from a variety of sources, with the sole intention of providing POSSIBLE solutions to a variety of issues.

NOTE : Most faults and issues "should" be resolved by your Dealer under Warranty in the first 2 years.
It is your responsibility to ensure that any work you carry out does not invalidate such warranty.


See also : ENGINE CUTS OUT below

Triumph have issued Safety Recall Notice 505 to replace the ECM on all Trophy models in all Markets,
from VIN 561284 to 637165. ( with thanks to Member "DonTom" for the update ).

The recall is to address electronic interference issues from the Throttle Position Sensor ( TPS ),
that can, in some cases, cause the ECM to shutdown, resulting in loss of power from the engine.

NOTE : If you have purchased the DealerTool device, you will need a new code for the DealerTool software,
if your ECM is replaced. DealerTool are aware of the ECM Recall, and in these circumstances
will provide one new Code on request without charge. ( With thanks to Member "saaz" for the update ).

A relatively small number of Trophy owners have experienced an issue where the engine stops / cuts out for no apparent reason. 
The fault has been diagnosed in some cases as a faulty Throttle Position Sensor ( TPS )
which has subsequently been replaced by Triumph under warranty.

Any such fault should be reported to and investigated by the Dealer.

See also - "Faulty Triumph Datatool S4 Alarm", if fitted,
in the "ENGINE WON'T START" Section below.

This can be found on your Registration papers and is also stamped into the engine crankcase,
immediately below the gearbox, adjacent to the oil filter. ( Owners Manual Page 15 ).


It is worth noting that if the Throttle twist grip is rotated more than 20 degrees
AND the Brake(s) are applied for more than two seconds,
the throttle will automatically close and engine power output will be reduced.
( On-Line owners Manual Page 67 "BRAKE USE" ).
This could appear to be a fault if you are "riding" the Brake pedal,
OR if the rear Brake light switch is incorrectly adjusted such that the Brake light remains permanently ON.
With thanks to Member "recap0006" for Highlighting this potential issue.

See also on Page 3 :


An "Upgrade" to earlier Trophy models has been made to the Valve Train to reduce this noise. 
Affected Engine ( VIN ) numbers are up to 602960.
If your Engine Number is lower than this, check with your Dealer to see if you have had, or need the Engine modification.
Technical Service Bulletin 153 refers to UK models, Technical Service Bulletin 154 refers to the Rest of the World.
More information here : "Engine Upgrade email from Triumph"


There are many reasons why this may happen :

The first and most obvious things to check are :

Does the engine turn over ? If NO - suspect a drained / faulty battery.
If the battery is DEFINITELY OK ( there have been several faulty batteries replaced under warranty ),
then suspect :
* Faulty Ignition Switch Wiring, ( See : "IGNITION SWITCH - WIRING CONNECTION(S)" below ).
* Faulty Handlebar Starter Button wiring - See this Topic : Trophy Just quit, literally,
* Faulty Starter Motor,
* Poor / detached connection at the Solenoid - There have been a couple of reports
   of the Starter Solenoid contact being knocked loose - just forward of the Main battery.
   See here for more information and Images : "Failure to start !" - Post #39
( With thanks to Members "cd12", Papermaker" and "Cropbiker" for the information ! )
* Faulty Starter Solenoid
* Faulty Starter Relay
* Faulty Datatool S4 Alarm ( If fitted ) - See here :
   IMPORTANT ! Triumph Datatool S4 Alarm Recall for details
   of Product Recall & Replacement.
* Check clutch lever is pulled in / switch is not faulty
* Faulty Side Stand Switch
* Check gearbox is in Neutral / Neutral indicator switch is not faulty.

If the engine DOES turn over :
  • Check you have fuel !  :138:
    ( Also worth leaving the Fuel Filler cap open and trying again -
    there may be a "Vapour Lock" caused by blocked vents. )
  • Check Handlebar Engine Stop switch is correctly set / switch is not faulty
    NOTE : See also Handlebar switch wiring fault on Page 2
  • Faulty Crankcase Position Sensor - Located on the left side of the engine,
    near to the Flywheel cover and behind the Fairing, this Sensor is used by the Main ECU
    to determine Fuel Injection and Ignition timings.

In addition, the following symptoms may indicate a faulty TPS ( Throttle Position sensor ) :
  • Engine does not start
  • Engine Management System lit
  • Traction Control warning light lit

In this situation try switching off and leaving for a few minutes.
If the engine then starts, but the Engine Management light remains on,
have the bike checked over by a Triumph dealer and mention the possibility of a faulty TPS.



There is a full "How To" article with photographs on removing the Fairing here :
How to remove the Fairing .....


Also known as "DTC's" ( Diagnostic Trouble Codes ).

If any codes are stored they are normally read using Triumph Diagnostic equipment,
or after market equipment such as "DataTool", but can also be displayed on the Instrument panel :

Press and hold in both the "SCROLL UP" button and the "SELECT" button,
and then Switch on the Ignition while still holding the buttons in.
The Fault Code(s) will then be displayed on the Instrument Panel.
{ With thanks to member towersk for this Information }

The meaning of these Codes can be found on a downloadable file ( for Forum Members logged on),
over in the Servicing Data and Reference Information Topic at Reply #8.


A number of Members have reported their Final Drive Units developing an Oil Leak.
There is an Oil Seal that can be replaced - discussed here :
Fnal Drive / Drive Shaft Oil Leak, and detailed in the Service Manual.
With thanks to Member "Ray_B" for this information.

Other than that, there appear to be NO serviceable parts or Seals within this assembly,
and the complete ( expensive ) Unit has to be replaced.

It is worth noting that the Final drive Unit fitted to "later" Trophy Models,
appears to have been redesigned from the original version.
( Awaiting further information on this ).


A few owners have experienced an unusual clicking noise from the front forks.
With thanks to Member kurtmartin1027 this has been identified as being caused by
the top "Triple Tree" nut ( See Photo ) not being sufficiently / correctly torqued.


CAUTION : If your Front Forks are leaking oil this could run down and contaminate the front disc brake resulting in a loss of braking efficiency.

Undoubtedly there have been some new Trophy's where the Front Fork seals have leaked. 
These will be attended to by your Dealer and should be replaced if they are leaking,
however there have been other Trophy's, notably export models, where packing grease underneath the dust covers
has melted in warmer climates and has run down the fork leg - giving the impression of a leaking fork seal.
It is difficult to tell whether the leak is Fork Oil or Packing grease so the recommended action is to take the bike to your Dealer to be checked.


See “WHEELS - Front Wheel Wobble” ( On PAGE 3 )

FUEL GAUGE - Reading Low or No fuel with fuel in the Tank

The Fuel Gauge can sometimes indicate low fuel, or no fuel, when there is plenty of fuel in the tank.
This can occur :
  • After running low on fuel and then refilling the tank
  • After the Battery has been disconnected and reconnected
In both cases the fuel gauge will recalibrate after riding for up to 5 minutes.



See    “SAT NAV - Garmin Zumo 660 - Audio not working when NAV selected". ( On PAGE 3 )


Slipping out of Gear

A few Members have reported that the Gearbox will slip out of 2nd Gear ( sometimes others )
particularly when accelerating, or when changing down, and can slip into "Neutral".

Mechanical investigations have revealed this can be due to bent or worn Gear Selector forks.
With thanks to Members : Gr8Canadian, OhioWinger, Vansflyer, digital, Dan66, and others for information.

Topic here: Slipping out of 2nd gear ?


Position : A Service Bulletin recommended adjustment of the Gear change pedal position
on some early models ( details not known ).

Stiff Pedal : Some Members have reported difficulty changing gear,
and on investigation found this to be due to the Pedal binding on the Pivot Bolt due to corrosion.
This could possibly result in the Pivot Bolt breaking, as below. 

Breakage of Pivot Bolt : Some owners have had the gear change lever mounting bolt shear off,
needing a visit to the Dealer to be repaired under warranty.
Further details here : GEAR LEVER
and here : Sheared gear lever mounting bolt


See KILL SWITCH ( Ignition ) below.

HEADLIGHT - Flickering at low Revs

A few Members have reported this, and while in itself it does not seem to be an issue,
it can be indicative of poor electrical connections in the Cables from the Battery
to the Earthing Point(s) / Alternator / Starter Solenoid / Starter etc.

More information here : Headlights Flickering at Ide - Scroll to Reply #54.
( With thanks to Member dwillcox ),

... and here : 42k Mile Maintenance - List of Major Items - Reply #3.
( With thanks to Member City Of Trees )


New Installation :
Heated Handlebar grips can be fitted as an option by the factory when the bike is being built,
or afterwards as an accessory.  The switch is fitted as standard. 
Some new owners have mistakenly thought their grips were not working ,
when they had actually not been fitted !

After installation, the Dealer needs to use their computer equipment to enable the Grips,
and have the heated Grips symbol appear on the bottom left of the instrument panel display when switched on.
( The symbol disappears shortly after switching the heated grips off ).

If the heated grips do not work on a new installation,
the most likely reason is that they have not been enabled by the Dealer,
but also check the obvious - Front Fuse Box, Fuse No. 1 ( 10A ).

Existing Installation ( Previously working ) :

If  the heated grips have previously been working correctly and have now stopped,
it is possible that the wire(s) has / have been “chafed” where it/they enter the handlebars
near the switch assembly, due to a sharp metal edge,
which can then short out and cause the fuse to below.

If both grips are not working check Fuse No. 1 ( 10A ) in the Front fuse box.
If it has blown, and blows again when replaced,
then it is likely that the above chafing of wiring is the cause.

If only one Heated Grip is not working, it is likely that that the plug in connector is not correctly connected,
or that the wire is completely cut through, but not in contact with the metal handlebar,
( i.e. the fuse would not blow ).

HEATED GRIPS - Not displayed on the Instrument Panel

Underneath the Fairing Glove box is an electrical bridge socket that needs to be connected.
The original blanking plug is removed and a replaced with a plug that bridges the contacts in the socket.
This then enables the Heated Grips Instrument Panel Icons.
Check the correct plug has been fitted and / or has not worked loose.
With thanks to Member "malcolm" for this information



On a limited number of Trophy's the wiring running around the Headstock to the Ignition Switch
becomes overly "tight" when turning the Handlebars fully to the right, putting strain on the wiring
connections at the Ignition switch, resulting in breaks in the connections.
The remedy is to replace the complete Ignition switch assembly.
This usually means you will end up with a separate key for the new Ignition Lock.
Triumph ARE aware of the issue and have in some cases agreed to repair outside Warranty,
and have also replaced the complete Trophy lock set when requested so the Owner still has just one key.
NOTE:This is now subject of a WORLDWIDE Safety Recall Inspection ( SRAN574 ).



Kill Switch ( Ignition )

A lack of slack cable in the wiring to the right handlebar switch cluster, can apparently result in wiring pins
being pulled out of their connector blocks. Similarly, within the right hand switch cluster the lack of slack
could result in the wires feeding the Ignition "Kill" Switch ( and others ? ) being pulled loose or breaking.
There is a separate thread on this subject here : No Power When Ignition and Kill Switch are ON
Also see : Trophy Just quit, literally
( At least one ) Member has modified and extended their wiring within the switch housing
to reduce the risk of this happening to them.
It would appear that later Trophy Models either have a longer harness, or have had the cables routed
in such a way that there is more slack where it matters !
With Thanks to Members "Cide1", "Briang1234", and "TerryB" for their input  :028:


See    “Coolant Leak”
and   “Front Fork Seals Leaking”


See "Battery" - Low Voltage"





The Oil Filter can be removed without completely removing the Fairing by just loosening some of it.
There is lots of information on how to the Oil Filter, together with details of the tool(s) required here :
How to extract the Oil Filter

HOW TO : Check the most common faults & issues Page 1 ( A - D )

HOW TO : Check the most common faults & issues Page 3 ( P - Z )

« Last Edit: July 06, 2021, 08:18:35 am by Coconut »